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Old ways to keep winter warm, Kyoto's woodworking industry, interview with a cafe owner

Hoshigaki persimmons drying in the sun before Mount Fuji.

It's mid January and everyone is recovering from the madness of an extra long Japanese New Year holiday. That includes me!

This post is full of interesting places, views and personal memories. I studied traditional Japanese woodwork or mokko in Kyoto from 1990-2000. And I continue to favor Japanese hand tools over all electrical tools. BTW: The image for this post shows hoshigaki persimmons drying in the sun before Mount Fuji. Hoshigaki are full of vitamin C and sunshine! Learn more!

Content by Ian Martin Ropke, owner of Your Japan Private Tours (est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with Japan private tour clients and have worked for all kinds of families, companies, and individuals since 1990. Clients find me mostly via organic search, and I advertise my custom Japan private tours & travel services on www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps in Japan! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip. And thank you for reading my content. I, Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search), am also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!

Trad Japanese winter things to keep warm and cozy

Many traditional Japanese handicrafts are simple, inexpensive and created for everyday use. And even simple, daily-life things are skillfully created by Kyoto craftsmen, who pride themselves on making beautiful things that last for a long, long time. Here are some things many (especially older, i.e. wiser) Japanese have and everyone appreciates. Note: most of these things are sold in big department stores or in traditional neighborhood shopping arcades (shotengai).

Nabe Hot Pots: in the winter months the Japanese love nothing more than cooking up all kinds of things in communal (like fondue) nabe pots. These sturdy, wide-more-than-deep ceramic pots are a great thing to take home. They are usually decorated with traditional seasonal motifs (often cherry blossoms: something to look forward to during the cold winter months). If you do get a nabe, you should get a portable gas burner so that you can place it on your table at home and the whole family or friends can eat together.

Japanese Winter Hanten Coats & Vests: the Japanese don’t have central heating. Instead portable kerosene heaters are used in almost all homes and apartments. Blanket-covered heatlamp table (kotatsu) are also a winter favourite. But if you have to venture outside, into a cold room, or just want to stay extra warm, traditional padded (wonderfully patterned) hanten coats and vests are the way to go. Look good and be extra warm this winter: get a hanten!

Traditional Hot Water Bottles: getting into the cold futon on a bitter cold night is always a bit of a shock. That’s where a ceramic bottle of hot water (usually placed at the foot of the bed) comes in super handy. Called yutampo, they were are traditionally made of thick, light-weight metal. Unfortunately, the old ones are not so common any more, but if you look real hard you should be able to find one (ask at local pharmacies; if they don’t have one they can tell you where to get one; plastic ones are widely available at big department stores).

Three prestigious Kyoto mokko woodworking specialists

The art of Japanese wood work is widely regarded as the most refined in the world. For example, the sculpture masterpieces of the Kamakura Period (1185-1333) are still considered to be the finest examples of wooden human portraiture in existence. And few wooden structures anywhere can compare to the immensity and graceful perfection epitomized by the temples of the Nara Period (710-794). Traditional Japanese woodwork can be broken up into five distinct categories — carving, joinery, barrel construction, circular wooden containers, and lathe work. Kyoto has craftsmen active in all of these areas. However, most of the industry continues to be centered largely in the hands of individual craftspersons working out of private studios. And, like so many other traditional Japanese industries, the existence of the woodworking industry is under serious threat by modern construction methods. Traditional Japanese woodwork is based on the use of tools which are sharpened to nearly razor blade sharpness by hand, a process that is as demanding as it is time consuming. The time intensive nature of this craft is reflected in the high prices commanded by Japanese wooden hand-crafted things. Nevertheless, creations and objects born from the Japanese woodworking tradition symbolize perfection itself, with a beauty that is lasting and a quality that endures and endures. This will never change.

Jurinsha: Specializing in woodwork creation and education

Founded by businessman and wood lover, Mr. Kodo Kan, nearly 30 years ago, Jurinsha plays an important role in Kyoto as a supplier of precious woods, as a creator of fine wooden furniture and objects, and as a place where people can learn the ancient art of Japanese wood work. Originally located on the slopes of upper Hiei-zan, Jurinsha began its involvement with wood craftsmen and artists 25 years ago. Since relocating to its present location near Katsura Rikyu in 1981, Jurinsha has quickly established itself as the largest supplier of keiyaki lumber in Kansai (auctions held in spring and autumn). Keiyaki, a slow growing deciduous tree, is one of the most prized types of wood in Japan for furniture, counters, tokonoma, and other traditional objects.

In addition to its lumber operations, Jurinsha employs a number of traditional Japanese master craftsman to create wooden chairs, shelves, dressers, tables, tokonoma, counters, trays and bowls to order for businesses and private individuals (there is a large show room on the premises). Many of these works also require high level lacquer work, which is also carried out at Jurinsha.

In 1987, Jurinsha added a craft juku to teach traditional wood working techniques. Today, with over 25 students, the juku is one of the leading contributors to the world of wood craftsmanship and creation in Kyoto (foreign students welcome). [FYI: I studied at the Jurinsha juku from 1990-2000. I continue to practice wood sculpture but my work is now very primitive and related to spiritual awakenings or art that switches on your conscious mind . . .

In the words of Ryosaku Takeda, Jurinsha's senior craftsman and head of the juku, "When people see the things we create here, I want them to see a forest and not just an object made of wood. I want them to derive a certain kind of happiness from wood and wooden objects. For more information on Jurinsha's activities call 311-1778.

Miyazaki Mokuzai: Wood specialists since 1856

Miyazaki Mokuzai started doing business 142 years ago as a furniture maker for the Imperial family. During its long history, Miyazaki Mokuzai has always tried to maintain a balance between tradition and progress.

The firm’s first commission was for a set of bridal furniture for Prince Kazunomiya in 1856. During the Meiji and Taisho periods (1868-1926) the modern-day foundation of the company, as a specialist in bridal and high-class furniture, was established. Always challenging the design limits of their field, while preserving traditional forms, several of the firm’s craftsmen have received prestigious design prizes from a number of associations for their work.

In the Showa period (1926-1988), Miyazaki Mokuzai established a new factory and split itself into two separate divisions: 1) Miyazaki Mokuzai Co., Ltd. was set up to specialize in the production of Western furniture; 2) under a new name, Miyazaki Co Limited continued to specialize in traditional Japanese furniture. At the same time, the family-owned business made inroads into the construction of interiors for Japan’s rapidly growing shipping industry. Their successes in this latter field eventually led to the firm’s secure place in the field of architectural interior design.

In recent years, Miyazaki Mokuzai has invested considerable time and energy into the development of new, advanced materials for furniture and architectural applications. One of their products, Miyametal is a special material that combines the beauty of wood with the advantages of metal. Miyametal is highly cost effective, and easy to process and cut to size. It was first invented during the construction of an important Imperial guest palace, the Shinguden Toyoakeden, in Tokyo. Another of their modern successes, Miyaguard, is used to cover wood with a special copper coating to prevent scorching, and ageing. It is widely applied in table and kitchen materials, which dovetails perfectly with Miyazaki Mokuzai’s numerous commissions for large banquet halls.

In its long history, the firm has been successful in a wide range of fields including the creation of furniture for the living quarters of the Emperor and Empress, construction of numerous buildings for the Imperial family as well as government and municipal offices, concert halls and major hotels. The firm has also been involved in the reconstruction of many temples and shrines including Heian Shrine, Daikaku-ji Temple, Ninan-ji Temple in Kyoto, Kasuga Grand Shrine in Nara, and Izumo Grand Shrine in Shimane.

Miyazaki Mokuzai only employs the most skilled workers. And despite the fact that there are many new and highly-advanced machines used in their business, the individual sense and long experience of their workers is still regarded as the most important. Though mass-production techniques are sometime called for, the firm still prides itself on the details. The Japanese furniture production workshop is set up, as it has always been, in a tatami-mat covered workshop.

The Miyazaki Mokuzai philosophy for the 21st century is to emphasize quailty over everything. For more information on the firm and its activities, call 864-7000 (Japanese only).

Iguchi Mokkosho: A specialist in the art of Japanese joinery

Located just a few meters south of Ebisugawa-dori, between Teramachi and Karasuma, in the heart of Kyoto's furniture industry, Iguchi Mokkosho has been involved in wood-related craft work since 1927. Now in its third generation of operation, it ranks as one of Kyoto's leading firms in the intricate art of sashimono or joinery.

The essence of sashimono lies in joining pieces of wood together in a way that is not obvious to the eye, and in a way that lends sufficient strength to the joint. Objects made using traditional joinery techniques use no metal nails or brackets.

Though many sashimono businesses use dowels to join pieces together, Iguchi Mokkosho uses Japanese joinery techniques only. Consequently, their furniture, for example, takes a long time to make. However, for all the extra effort, these pieces can easily last a lifetime. Due to the low cost and wide availability of mass produced furniture, the number of businesses specializing in traditional sashimono work have dropped dramatically over the past several decades.

About two thirds of Iguchi Mokkosho's furniture related work involves Western-style furniture; the other third Japanese-style furniture. Their work, ranging from chairs and tables to tansu and dividing screens, is for the most part commissioned through large furniture retailers. In addition to furniture-related orders they also do important work for artists (such as makie, Japanese enamel, artists) and execute custom ordered copies of classical Japanese wooden objects. For more information on Iguchi Mokkosho call 231-4953.

Japanese & USA traditions: an interview with Akiko Hirano, cafe owner

I interviewed Ms. Akiko Hirano of Café Matsunosuke in July 2001, at her newly opened cafe. Cafe Matsunosuke is in central Kyoto about 1 km directly south of the Kyoto Imperial Palace Park (the Gosho). At the time of the interview the entire city of Kyoto was in a "new cafe" boom. In fact, I hand built a cafe for my wife the year before, just a east of Kyoto University. Most cafes of the early 2000s came and went but remarkably Cafe Matsunosuke is not one of them. The shop front looks like it did 23 years ago and the desserts and coffee are still beyond excellent. Learn more!

YJPT: You come from a traditional Kyoto family. How and where did you grow up?

Ms. Hirano: My family has a very traditional and rather unusual background. We made Noh costumes, which are among the most elaborate textile works in the world. My brother is the 4th generation of the business. Though we have always been considered a part of the Nishijin textile world, said to be the end of the ancient Silk Road, our house was on the eastern edge of Nishijin, almost next to the Old Imperial Palace grounds. During the first generation of our business, many of our neighbors were purveyors to the Imperial household. We probably made Noh costumes that were used within the palace.

My brother and I grew up in this world which was multi-colored, as kimono tend to be. Because of that, or so I suppose, we both have a highly refined sense of color. The house we all grew up in was 130 years old when we found it was infested with termites. It was so sad, but we had to tear it down. However, the original family looms are still set up and being used in the house. So in that sense our family tradition is still very much alive. And I am proud of that. Being able to see and feel your roots is very important. It is the way culture is preserved and created.

YJPT: The Old Imperial Palace grounds are huge. It must have been an incredible place to play. What was your childhood like? Did you play there often?

Ms. Hirano: We played there all the time. It was like our private park, an unbelievable playground. And unlike kids today, we played outside most of the time. Except when it was raining. We jumped rope, played hide and seek. And in those days there were no security guards on the grounds, so we could go where we like and play where we liked. We were so lucky.

YJPT: Did you also attend schools in the area?

Ms. Hirano: I went to a local elementary school. And then I went to Notre Dame Junior High School, an all-girls school, where I learned English from a native speaker every day. As a student of English at that time, I thought our teachers were too tough and that learning English was hard. But now, when I look back on the way we were taught, I am very grateful because I learned to speak English well when I was young. Without this fundamental communication skill, we can never really become international in the same way that so many other countries around the world seem to be. I find it especially disappointing that almost all of our prime ministers are unable to speak English. Young people today are more and more outgoing and internationally-minded and this is a positive thing. However, I sometimes that I don’t understand young Japanese people. They have forgotten the basic rules of etiquette, so they often seem rude and careless.

YJPT: How and when did you become interested in American-style baking?

Ms. Hirano: I attended university in my late 30s in the USA. My plan was to take an English degree. I enrolled in the University of Connecticut. During my first days at school, I was invited to a party at a professor’s house. She was a baking expert and when I tasted her poppy　seed cake for the first time I knew that I wanted to learn about American cake. In the end I finished my bachelor’s degree and my baking training in a little over five years. I loved my stay in Connecticut.

Most Japanese are under the mistaken impression that American baking is very, very sweet and very, very unsophisticated. I am trying to teach the Japanese the wonders of American baking. The amazing quality of real apple, pumpkin and pecan pie. The richness and irresistible taste of strawberry shortcake and other dessert delights like scones and muffins. I often use the analogy that European cake is like silk and American cake is like cotton. Both are different and both are special.

YJPT: What is this café? What is it that you want to achieve here?

Ms. Hirano: I wanted to create a place where I could teach and serve American-style baking at the same time. It is the first place, that I know of, in the Kansai region, perhaps even in Japan, focused on American-style baking. In Kyoto most traditional coffee shops close quite early. I wanted to create a place that was open later and that would attract all kinds of people: people interested in baking, people interested in American-style cake and coffee. But I also wanted to preserve my roots. So the first floor is western and the second floor, where we have some of my families Noh costumes on display, is Japanese style. Right now, we do not have a huge clientele. We don’t advertise, but we are getting more students and customers all the time. Last month, I did a cooking demonstration on NHK which was broadcast all over Japan.

My students are mostly women, and a few men. Altogether, I have about 500 students in Kyoto and Tokyo, where I teach one week a month. I have about 300 regular students. I teach 3 classes a day and each class has only 6 students. The lessons are reasonable and I offer some of my best students a chance to tour the New England area and study with my baking master once a year.

Most of my customers are a little bit older and have lived or stayed in the states for a while. They come here for the nostalgia. While the younger crowd tend to be a bit more sophisticated. About 70% of my customers, as you might imagine, are women.

YJPT: What are your feelings toward America?

Ms. Hirano: America is known for its openness and I felt it to be that way too, even though I was living in one of the country’s most conservative areas. The USA is great for people who have purpose and want to learn. Japan is more a place where you can expect society to take care of you. Even without strong opinions, you can survive here. In Japan, people adapt to each other. In the States, however, you must project strength and you must have strong opinions about many things. This is especially true for survival in the USA, which is very much the individual’s responsibility.

America is also very flexible about age. People admire you if you go back to school or start something new, at any age. Japan is much more rigid about social roles and what is normal and not normal. In the States many 80-year-olds drive, go dancing and travel all over. I think Japan should learn this flexibility and this lighter approach to life.

Many young Japanese people who want to learn English study on the west coast of the USA. I think this is a mistake. Students should get their American experience as far away from Japan and big cities as they can. Small town America is perfect for that.

YJPT: What are your favorite things, places, foods in Kyoto?

Ms. Hirano: My favorite place is the Gosho [Kyoto Imperial Palace Park], especially in the early morning. My favorite food in Kyoto is kaiseki, and soba and udon. I especially love our autumn and winter. The cold makes me feel strong. Kyoto is a very special city in Japan. Kyoto must try to maintain Japanese traditions, because this is the center of the old Japanese world. We must try in many ways to preserve our traditions and culture.

Note: Cafe Matsunosuke (10:00-23:00; closed Thursdays) is located just south of Oike-dori on the east side of Takakura (just north of the Museum of Kyoto). Tel: 253-1058.

Content by Japan travel specialist & designer Ian Martin Ropke, founder & owner of Your Japan Private Tours (YJPT, est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with all of YJPT's Japan private tour clients and have a great team behind me. I promote YJPT through this content and only advertise at www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip to save time & have a better time. Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search) is also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!