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Bento box lunches, Arashiyama walking tour, doll maker interview

Japanese traditional dolls, which take a long time to make!

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Content by Ian Martin Ropke, owner of Your Japan Private Tours (est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with Japan private tour clients and have worked for all kinds of families, companies, and individuals since 1990. Clients find me mostly via organic search, and I advertise my custom Japan private tours & travel services on www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps in Japan! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip. And thank you for reading my content. I, Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search), am also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!

Japan's amazing bento lunch box meals

Let's "talk" a bit about Japan's famous bento lunch boxes. Chances are the meal we do not eat at home is lunch. More than a meal, it's an interlude between activities, a time to rest weary minds, rumpled emotions, or tired feet. Both mental and physical refreshment is called for.

What to serve during this interval has been the preoccupation of many cultures. Given it's fascination with wrapped bundles, it's not surprising that Japan has painstakingly created the bento lunch box. More than a packed lunch, the bento is an edible sculpture, a visual as well as gastronomic experience.

Rice is the base of all Japanese meals. In fact, the word for meal, gohan, is the same as for cooked rice, which signifies the great importance of this grain in Japanese society. [Note: per capita rice consumption has steadily fallen since the late 1980s as pasta and bread became increasingly popular.]

Early bento's were simple rice balls often containing kombu (sea vegetable) or ume-boshi (salted plums) and wrapped in leaves to keep them moist and protected. The salted plum is also thought to keep the rice from spoiling, as are the various leaves used for wrapping.

Although rice ball bentos, or onigiri as they are actually called, may no longer come wrapped as in days gone by, there are a number of 'select them yourself' stands where you have at least 10-15 varieties to choose from. You can find these 'onigiri boutiques' in the basements of major department stores. and create your own lunch to enjoy under the autumn leaves.

Everyday bentos for modern travelers can be found at or near larger train stations. Stay clear of the red wieners and cold deep fried foods. If you like sushi, most sushi shops have sushi bento boxes to go, packed in easy to carry boxes.

Seasonal ingredients play a major role in traditional Japanese cooking. In autumn there is an increase of greens and roots such as sweet radish (daikon), carrots, taro potatoes, sweet potatoes, lotus root, and burdock (gobo), plus a plethora of mushrooms. Let's not forget chestnuts, as well as nashi (pear-apple) — the latter especially is a must-try. Fish change with the season and there are many to choose from. Don't worry about names, just let the restaurant select for you.

Many well-known restaurants have a bento as the 'set' meal for lunch, which usually is served from 11:30 until 14:00. This allows one to sample food from some of Kyoto's best and most expensive restaurants at a reasonable price.

The first one to come to mind is Kyoto's famous Hyotei restaurant, and one of the city's oldest restaurants. It offers a breakfast rice-porridge set and a lunch bento. Among the jewel-like tidbits in the bento, you'll always find their famous Hyotei tamago, a hard-boiled egg with a liquid center. The bento is served in an old traditional room looking onto a garden. Reservations required. Tel: 771-4116.

Mankame Ro, another ancient restaurant, which is now in it's 30th generation, follows the shikibocho food practice and rituals. This ceremony, which illustrates the proper way to carve and prepare food for the emperor, was started by Emperor Seiwa who reigned from 858 to 876. Mankame's bento and the restaurant itself is an example of Kyoto perfection that should not be ignored by serious gourmets. The rather high cost of the bento allows the chef to procure higher quality ingredients that do not require strong flavoring, which in turn allows the diner to appreciate the subtle tastes that Kyoto cuisine is famous for. The meal is served in a private room in an atmosphere of serenity and calmness that suitably complements the bento. Reservations required. Tel: 441-5020.

A walk across the Arashiyama district

This walk will take you through the wonderful Arashiyama-Saga district in Western Kyoto, an area that has been attracting tourists in huge numbers for more than 1,200 years. This area is best explored on foot because there is something to see everywhere along the way, including wonderfully lush temple and shrine compounds, old private villas, narrow streets full of souvenir shops, and two famous, stone-statue-filled temples. If you are planning to have lunch in the area, then please consider eating at Gyatei (right next to Arashiyama Stn), or Shigetsu (vegetarian cuisine, inside Tenryu-ji Temple) or Bokuseki (towards the middle of walk).

Start the walk by taking the Keifuku tram from Shijo-Omiya Stn. to Keifuku Arashiyama Stn. From the station enter the seemingly endless grounds of Tenryu-ji Temple.

Tenryu-ji, the head temple of the Tenryu-ji branch of the Rinzai Zen was built in 1339 by Ashikaga Takauji, the first Ashikaga shogun. At its peak, Tenryu-ji ranked as the largest Zen monastery in western Japan, with 120 sub temples. The temple's garden (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), dates back to the Heian period and was brilliantly restylized by Muso Soseki; it is one of the most beautiful and historically most important in Japan.

As you pass through and around the back of Tenryu-ji, you will find yourself in a wonderful bamboo forest. The play of the shadows here are a wonder to behold. Behind the temple grounds lies the two hectare (five acre) former estate of Okochi Denjiro, Japan’s most famous silent film era star. Known as Okochi Sanso, this attractive garden and teahouse complex is open to the public. The views from Mt. Ogura, where Ohkochi Sanso lies, have been celebrated in classical poetry since Heian times.

Next on the route is Nonomiya Shrine where the wind makes music with the bamboo leaves, and light filters magically down. To see a sunlit alcove through a shady, mossy grove is to begin to understand how beauty half-hidden is fully revealed. In the days of Hikaru Genji, the hero of the Heian romance The Tale of Genji, a virgin daughter of the emperor spent a year undergoing purification rites at Nonomiya Shrine before residing at the sacred seat of Japanese Shintoism, Ise Grand Shrine.

Jojakkoji temple, and begin the ascent to Ichi no Torii, the gateway to Mt. Atago. Known as Torii-moto, the foot of the gate, this incline is lined with typically Kyoto-style farmhouses.

Next along the route lies Seiryo-ji Temple, also known as Saga Shaka-do, sometimes referred to as the entrance to Sagano, the famed area adjacent to Arashiyama. Founded in 987 by the priest Chonen, this temple is home to several National Treasures and numerous works of art, including a statue of the Buddha carved 1,000 years ago in China after an original made in India. The temple also features a fine mandala, a garden and a pond, and five rare wooden Heian period statues.

Then continue east to the buccolic thatched hut known as Rakushisha. Translated to mean the Cottage of the Fallen Persimmon, this site was visited by the famous haiku poet Basho. A great number of stones in the garden are inscribed with poems (translations for some are given in the pamphlet).

Until the capital was moved to Tokyo, Nison-in was one of four temples which administered Imperial Buddhist ceremonies, and its hillside grounds are studded with the graves of emperors and aristocrats. Fresh green groves of bamboo line the path up and around the back of the temple, where the oldest gravestones are found. The main building has two main Buddhist images, Shaka and Amida, and beautifully painted fusuma, or sliding doors. The spacious grounds are as tranquil and still as its long-term residents.

Next you will come to Takiguichi-dera, and begin the ascent to Ichi no Torii, the gateway to Mt. Atago. Known as Torii-moto slope, this uphill section is lined with old Kyoto-style farmhouses.

The road curves to the left and then left again to the simple yet beautiful grounds of Gio-ji. Gio and her sister Gijo were Heian-period dancers. According to the Tale of the Heike, Gio became the mistress of Taira no Kiyomori (1118-1181), a famous military leader. When he became smitten with another dancer (with the stage name of Lady Buddha), he banished Gio from his mansion. A year later, Lady Buddha, filled with remorse for Gio, decided to join her, her sister, and mother in this secluded retreat. They lived out their days in prayer, waiting for this transient life and its humiliations to end.

Then begin the ascent to Ichi no Torii, the gateway to Mt. Atago. Known as Torii-moto, the foot of the gate, this incline is lined with typically Kyoto-style farmhouses.

Back at the main road, turn left, and begin the ascent to Ichi no Torii, the gateway to Mt. Atago. Known as Torii-moto, the foot of the gate, this incline is lined with typically Kyoto-style farmhouses. Lots of shops as well are found on either side of the road. Some sell pickles, others knickknacks, some offer coffee and tea, while others serve the area's famous dish of yu-dofu (hot-pot bean curd). A little further along on the left you will find a stone stairway that leads to Adashino Nenbutsu-ji, a stunning temple that is famous for its thousands of stone Buddhist images, originally unmarked graves of the poor.

The red torii further along the sloping road marks the beginning of the two-hour climb to the top of Mt. Atago. On either side of the torii are huge 440 year-old tea houses that have served pilgrims and visitors for centuries. Meals are also served at both places (reservations necessary). But for hardly anything you can enjoy a bowl of tea inside ancient smoke-darkened interior.

Another five minutes beyond brings you to the unusual temple of Otagi Nenbutsu-ji. An English pamphlet is available upon request. On the hilly grounds of this temple the visitor will find a wonderful array of carved stone figures, characterized by big smiles and joyful energy.

Buses bound for Sanjo Keihan and Kyoto Station leave from a stop located across from Otagi Nenbutsu-ji. They are infrequent, and times should be checked before entering the last temple.

Interview with a master doll maker and craftsman

Beginning on March 3rd and extending to the end of March, girls all over Japan, will, as they have been doing for centuries on Girl’s Day, display their dolls. These unique dolls sets are known as Hina Ningyo. This month we interviewed Inoue Masakaze, one of Kyoto’s last remaining dolls craftsmen. As specialist in the art of dressing dolls in kimono, Mr. Inoue is dedicated to his craft. He is also a great supporter of modernizing Japan’s craft traditions so they can survive the next century.

YJPT: How did you become a master doll dress maker?

Inoue: I was born in Kyoto, and, like many Kyoto craftsmen, I inheirited my father’s business. I am the second generation head in my family to run of this craft business. I started my training, as a dress craftsman for isho-ningyo, when I was 21 years old. Through my training, I became especially interested in traditional Japanese colours. I continued to study this subject in my late 20s by taking a special color course, given by Kyoto Prefecture, designed for all kinds of craft workers.

After that, I started to study clay figures, which I thought were very important to understand how to make doll costumes that fit perfectly. Many kinds of traditional Japanese dolls are produced in Kyoto, and it is quite common for one craftsman to criticize the dolls of another craftsman. As a doll costume specialist, I felt that I should know as much as possible about doll bodies as possible. In total, I have been studying for 33 years. I have learned a lot, but at the same time I am learning new things every day.

YJPT: Can you tell us about the history of Japanese dolls?

Inoue: Japan is probably the only country in the world with such a long and developed doll tradition. And most of this tradition has been centered in Kyoto. The earliest dolls, however, predate Kyoto by a long, long time. Japan’s first dolls, dogu [10,000-3,000 BC] and haniwa [300-700 AD], were made of unglazed clay. They were used primarily as talismans to ward off danger and evil.

In the Heian Period [794-1185], amagatsu and hitogata dolls, which were much more ornamental and mostly designed for children to play with, came into use among the aristocracy. This is the beginning of kyo-ningyo or isho-ningyo tradition, which has pretty much continued until today. But these dolls and other forms that developed later always had a protective role. They were believed to protect and ensure the health of their owners, the girls.

Over the centuries, the costumes created for these dolls became increasingly elaborate. In the Edo period [1600-1868], a special type of doll, known as hina-ningyo developed. These dolls are the ones used in the annual Hina Matsuri or Doll’s Festival, held in March. These dolls had the fanciest costumes you could imagine. But there was a reason for this. In the Edo period there were all kinds of rules for what you could and couldn’t wear. And these rules were strictly enforced. So for the merchant class, who weren’t allowed to dress up, dolls became a way of dressing up in ways that they couldn’t. And before long dolls became a way of expressing personal wealth.

Many other kinds of dolls were developed in Kyoto, during the Edo period. The most popular forms include the plain wooden saga-ningyo, the simply dressed wooden kamo-ningyo, and the expensive painted white ceramic gosho-ningyo. Most of these traditions have continued right through to today.

YJPT: How do you actually make and dress a doll?

Inoue: Though the dolls we make look quite simple, the doll production process is really quite complex. And almost every part of the doll—the head, hair, hands and feet, accessories, and cloth— is made of a different material requiring the expertise of a unique group of highly-skilled artisans. For example, the craftsman who carves the heads is an expert in gofun or shell power application, to get the color of the face just right. The hair dresser, on the other hand, knows how to make hair from silk. In the beginning, there were no doll craft specialists. Instead, all kinds of craftsmen were involved, including noh mask carvers and sculptors of wooden Buddhist images.

The costumes we use for our dolls come from designs developed in the imperial palace nearly 1,200 years ago. As a doll costume designer and creator, I have to know everything about every part of the doll. And we don’t just dress the doll, we also apply the makeup, a very important process that is the final step in any doll making process. As far as time goes, it can take anywhere from 5 days to a month to dress a doll in kimono, for example.

For the craftsman, concentration is everything. It’s a very intense process. The doll pieces and the costume components are really quite small. Because of this you really have to concentrate hard to do the job really well. I do my work without any rough sketches, and so I am often creating the feeling I want in my head as I am actually working on a particular doll.

The most important thing in the dressing process, as you might imagine, is kasaneirome or colour matching. In the Heian period, sensitive, warm colours were created on the basis of Kyoto’s beautiful and always changing seasonal elements: the mountains, flowers, plants, trees, and insects. We can study the basic tone of these colours through paintings or scrolls from that era, like the Tale of Genji. Unfortunately, we will never really know what colors they used back then, because color pigments age and change so much. But there are books published by scholars that suggest very strongly exactly what colors were used.

YJPT: How is the demands for Japanese dolls recently?

Inoue: Less young parents are buying Japanese dolls for their children. For the Hina Matsuri [Doll Festival], people are mostly buying small dolls because so many people live in small homes. In the old days, Japanese people used to buy dolls for almost all celebratory events such as birthdays, moving to new house, engagements and so on. Very few people buy such gifts today.

If you think about it in another way, most traditional handicrafts are for use inside the house. Recently people rarely invite friends to their house. And so there is less need to buy traditional things for the home. Many craftsmen make things that are no longer directly related to everyday Japanese life. Nowadays, we have to make things that ordinary people need, if we want to survive. If we don’t, our crafts will disappear. We have to make things that are affordable, many are still too expensive for the average person. Many doll production businesses are increasingly using part time workers shop to produce dolls more cheaply. It is becoming very hard to compete. The dolls I make cost at least Yen 300,000. This is simply too much for most people.

A lot of craftsmen are having a hard time finding successors. I am impressed European and American people idea about successor. Their idea is to work for fun. Japanese people are sticking to their professional areas and traditions. Older generation are too concerned about the skills, and not about marketing. People need to start making new things for new markets. It is the only way most craftsman will be able to survive.

I was the first craftsman to make dolls wearing colourful kimonos. Many other dolls business have copied my color styles. Another thing I try to do to sell my dolls is to include a detailed description about the colors and patterns of kimono. By reading this description the customer can learn all about the history and meaning of the doll they have bought. This sense of history and understanding is very important.

YJPT: Do you have any comments for foreign tourists visiting Kyoto?

Inoue: There are many craftsman in Kyoto. But most of them are busy inside their home. However, if you are really interested in what they do, you can visit their studio. If a tourist has access to a Japanese-speaking friend or guide, they can usually make an appointment with the craftsman. I want people to come and see me to understand what I do.

Content by Japan travel specialist & designer Ian Martin Ropke, founder & owner of Your Japan Private Tours (YJPT, est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with all of YJPT's Japan private tour clients and have a great team behind me. I promote YJPT through this content and only advertise at www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip to save time & have a better time. Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search) is also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!