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Daruma, Feb. Kyoto events, a talk with priestess Jakusho Setouchi

Daruma dolls based on the founder of Zen.

Once when I was guiding foreign tourists in Kyoto I was asked about Shigaraki-yaki, a well-known kind of pottery made in the southeast part of Shiga Prefecture (and partially Kyoto Prefecture) called Shigaraki. Just as we were about to enter a traditional Japanese restaurant the guest asked, "What is that animal standing on its hind legs, holding a bottle of sake and wearing that funny hat doing in the entrance? Does it mean something?" It was true. There stood the tanuki, or Japanese badger, in its rightful place at the doorway and I hadn't given the familiar site a second glance.

I later found out from a book that the Shigaraki-yaki tanuki is a popular lucky charm which can grant a life of prosperity, success, happiness, and health. This book also gave explanations for each characteristic of these unique pottery figurines: the hat guards against unpleasant incidents; the eyes are for accuracy and attention; the face represents truthful communication; the sake bottle stands for the health and happiness that comes with the enjoyment of food and drink; the account ledger symbolizes the importance of gaining and maintaining trust; the extended belly, or hara, is able to make correct decisions with clarity; the exaggerated testicles widen one's possibilities and capacity through financial satisfaction; and the tail ends things with completion and satisfaction.

The Shigaraki-yaki tanuki was created by Mr. Fujiwara, the first owner of Tanuki-ya So-honke pottery studio in Shigaraki. Fujiwara began as an apprentice in a Kiyomizu-yaki studio when he was nine. One night, as he walked along the Otowa River in Kyoto, he heard a strange drumming sound. He curiously crept up to the sound and found several badgers drumming on their big, rounded bellies. Mr. Fujiwara felt that he was very lucky to have seen such an unusual thing and soon after this experience, he moved to Shigaraki and developed the ceramic badger that has become so common, and so very popular, throughout Japan today.

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Content by Ian Martin Ropke, owner of Your Japan Private Tours (est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with Japan private tour clients and have worked for all kinds of families, companies, and individuals since 1990. Clients find me mostly via organic search, and I advertise my custom Japan private tours & travel services on www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps in Japan! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip. And thank you for reading my content. I, Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search), am also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!

Daruma: The "father" of Zen, who never gave up!

One of Japan's more familiar icons is a wobbly black, red and white doll, called a Daruma. Most Daruma are made from papier mâché in Takasaki City, Gumma Prefecture, and have large, empty circles where their eyes should be. When a Japanese makes a wish or resolution, one eye is filled in. When the wish comes true or the resolution is fulfilled, the other eye is painted in. One-eyed Daruma dolls are thus a standard feature of election offices. Large dolls are also often seen at police stations, factories, and even taxi companies where they display the serious intentions of the organization. One block north from Enmachi, at the intersection of Nishioji and Marutamachi Streets, you will find a Daruma doll fixed to the wall on your right. Turn right (east) there along Shimodachiuri Street; 50 meters further on you will see, on your right the entrance to Horinji Temple, popularly known as "Daruma Dera", the Temple of Daruma. Founded in 1718, Horinji houses an international collection of over 8,000 Daruma dolls in all shapes and sizes, and is the headquarters of the Japan Daruma Group. Daruma is the local name for Bodhidarma, founder of Zen Buddhism. Born into a Indian family of high caste in 470 A.D., legend has it that, at well over a hundred years old, he spent three years journeying to China on a leaf "for no reason."

In China, Bodhidarma was received by the Liang Dynasty Emperor, Wu Ti, who asked him to define the chief principle of Buddhism. Bodhidharma's reply was "Vast emptiness." Bodhidarma retired to the Shaolin Temple on Wu Tai mountain, Hunan Province, where he sat nine years staring at a wall. From this he lost the use of his arms and legs (hence the shape of the dolls) and came to be known as "The Wall-Gazing Buddha". Every Kung Fu movie fan knows that Shaolin priests practiced a unique form of martial arts. According to legend Bodhidarma, despite considerable disabilities, taught Kung Fu at the temple on Wu Tai mountain. Bodhidarma died in China in 543 at the age of 73, but many years later a Chinese court official on his way to India reported seeing him walking along the road, a sandal slung over his shoulder. But back to Horinji: In the center of the temple grounds there is a tearoom with a notice inside telling you all about the bunbuku chagama, a tea cauldron famous for the pleasing sound it made when steam lifted its lid. There was no James Watt around at the time, or the steam engine might have been invented centuries earlier! The type of tea ceremony taught at Horinji, by the way, differs from the traditional Japanese one in that sen cha leaf tea, and not the usual powdered tea (known as matcha) is used. Opposite the tearoom is a stone statue of Daruma sitting atop a sculptural representation of the Japanese cosmos, with the Gods of the Eight Directions inscribed in the base behind the twelve animals of the Chinese Zodiac. Between the statues and the tearoom is a small temple with a large wooden Bodhidarma on either side of the entrance. The characters above the door read "Nanakorobi Yaoki", a well known Daruma proverb literally meaning "Fall over seven times, get up eight". Inside the building there is the collection of Daruma dolls. A large picture of Daruma, painted by Kido Chutaro at 83 years-old, covers the ceiling. Because it's said that if you teach Zen incorrectly, your eyebrows will fall out, the Daruma is always depicted with extra-huge eyebrows. The two large characters in the painting read "Fu To" ("Don't fall over"). Facing you as you leave this interesting little building is the Shuseido, a red and white temple which houses a 400-year-old statue of a reclining Buddha as well as the spirits of some 600 movie stars on its second floor. If you pray while touching the statue, you will gain long life and intelligence--that is, if you don't already have them! By the way, if you walk around the neighborhood of the temple, you might notice that a number of houses have small swastika signs. They indicate that a member of the household practices the martial art taught by the school in the temple--the Japanese version of Shaolin Kung Fu, known as Shorinji Kempo.

Horinji Temple ("Daruma Dera") is located on Shimodachiuri, west of Nishioji, Kamigyo-ku. Open 9:00-16:30 daily, Entry: Yen 300; Tel: (075) 841-7878. Posted by Your Japan Private Tours (www.kyoto-tokyo-private-tours.com).

Major February Kyoto events at temples & shrines

Setsubun (Feb 02-04), literally “season division,” is the most important festival of late winter in Japan. This colorful ritual is celebrated throughout the nation from February 2 to 4 in a variety of symbolic demon exorcisms and rites in which the past is purified by fire. Many of the temple rituals are a lot of fun, and the evening entertainment is among the best of the year. Prior to the adoption of the Western calendar at the turn of the century, Setsubun marked the official beginning of the Japanese New Year, as it continues to do in China (according to the true lunar calendar). In traditional homes, the whole family will join together and chant, “Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi.” ("Out with the demons, in with good luck."), then enthusiastically scatter parched soybeans about the house to bring good luck. Some of the best rituals occur after dark by fire light. Don't miss it! And good luck!

Setsubun annual highlights for Kyoto are as follows: Heian Shrine (Feb. 3): At 12:00, kyogen (ancient comic theatrical art) will be performed at this shrine. Demons are driven out with blazing torches. Bean-throwing follows at 15:00 and then at 16:00, a large fire will be lit. At Heian Shrine in Okazaki. Tel: 761-0221. Yasaka Shrine (Feb. 2 & 3): On both days, traditional dance by geiko (name for geisha in Kyoto) and maiko (their apprentices) will be held at 13:00 and 15:00. At Yasaka Shrine in the Gion, at the east end of Shijo St. Tel: 561-6155. Yoshida Shrine (Feb. 2-4): At this shrine, pre-Setsubun rites begin at 18:00 on Feb 2. Many stalls open on during these three days, selling sake, hot food, etc. However, the most fantastic event, the Karo Festival (at 23:00) is on the 3rd. In this event, old amulets, charms and personal papers are burned (before their “power to do good” vanishes) in a giant central bonfire. The fire burns all night, and is not to be missed! At Yoshida Jinja, east of Kyoto University. Tel: 771-3788. Mibu-dera Temple (Feb. 2-4): At 13:00 on the 2nd at this temple, there will be a procession of yamabushi (mountain ascetics) and children. And every hour from 13:00 to 21:00 on the 2nd and 3rd, an 11th century Buddhist morality play entitled "Setsubun" will be performed in pantomime. Free. Sweet zenzai soup served at 10:00 on the 4th—also free. At Mibu-dera, southwest of Hankyu Railway's Shijo Omiya Stn. Tel: 841-3381. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine (Feb. 3): Kyogen, Japanese traditional comedy drama (from 13:00) by the Shigeyama troupe, and Japanese dance by the geiko of the nearby Kamishichiken district. At Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, on Imadegawa, between Nishioji and Senbon. Tel: 461-0005. Rozan-ji Temple (Feb. 3): On this day, three devils in padded costumes, each brandishing a weapon, appear at this temple in what is one of the most popular demon dance of the Setsubun season. The black devil, wielding a sword, represents greed. The green devil, with an axe, anger. And the red devil, bearing a hammer and a burning torch, discontent. After the dance has reached its climax, monks throw soybeans at the crowd to bring them good luck. Things get under way from about 15:00. At Rozan-ji Temple on Teramachi, north of Hirokoji. Tel: 231-0355. Senbon Enma-do Temple (Feb. 2 & 3): A special devil’s root dish will be served here on both days (Yen 300). A Kyogen play will be performed on the evening of the 3rd. At Senbon Enma-do Temple, northeast of Senbon Teranouchi. Tel: 462-3332.

Yotsugi Jizo Festival (2/09): At 10:00, Yasui Jizo, the deity of good health and easy childbirth, is prayed to here in a special ceremony. During the ritual, which begins at 14:00, prayer sticks (called goma) are burned by yamabushi (mountain ascetics). Kasujiru, a soup made from sake lees, is served free of charge from 9:00 to 16:00. Jotoku-ji Temple: southwest of Kawaramachi Gojo. Tel: 351-4360.

Ohara Radish Boiling Ritual (2/8-11): At Sanzen-in, Ohara’s most popular and beautiful temple, after the ritual ceremony the radish will served to the people (about 1,000 people). To get to Sanzen-in, take Kyoto bus #17, or #18 to Ohara. Tel: 744-2531.

Nanakusa Gayu (2/11): During this ceremony (9:00 to 16:00; entry ¥450), Haru-no-nanakusa (“seven spring herbs”; said to purify the body and prevent illness) grown at this shrine are offered to the shrine deity. Nanakusa-gayu, rice gruel seasoned with those herbs, is served in the Saikan Hall. This shrine’s superb gardens are highly recommended. At Jonan-gu Shrine, 1 km west of Takeda Subway Stn, in Fushimi. Tel: 623-0846.

Godai-Rikison Ninno-e (2/23): In this spectacular contest, people compete to see how long they can lift and hold two enormous rice cakes (mochi). One sub temple (Sambo-in) in this large temple complex is famous for its garden, and excellent Momoyama-period (1568-1600) Japanese art collection. At Daigo-ji Temple: 10-15-min walk from Daigo Stn. on the Tozai subway line. Tel: 571-0002.

Godai-Rikison Hoyo (2/23): In this special Buddhist ceremony (open to public participation), amulets for safety are given to participants. Hot soup called Kasujiru is served free of charge. At Sekizenin Junten-do Temple, near Higashioji and Marutamachi. Tel: 761-0541.

Kitano Tenmangu Shrine Baikasai Plum Blossom Festival (2/25): The Tenjin-san Flea Market and Plum Viewing Festival on the 25th is an extremely popular event related to plum blossoms. Kitano Tenmangu is one of Japan’s most famous place for viewing plum blossoms. It has nearly 2,000 trees. The plum blossom is a prominent decorative motif in the shrine’s lanterns, tiles, and woodwork. The ceremony started as a form of prayer for the repose of the soul of the 9th century scholar, Sugawara Michizane, an unfortunate victim of court intrigues in the 10th century who died in exile on this day and is now enshrined here. The highlight of the festival is an outdoor tea ceremony, performed by the geiko of nearby Kamishichiken district. A bowl of whipped green tea is served (together with a traditional Japanese sweet) for ¥1,500. Prayers sessions are held at 10:00, tea ceremony held 10:00 to 15:00. The Main Hall will be open to the public. Located at the west of Imadegawa Senbon. Tel: 461-0005.

A talk with Jakusho Setouchi, priestess, writer, media star

Jakusho Setouchi (1922-2021) was one of Japan's most well-known and respected writers. Her career spanned much of Japan's post war period, making her, in a sense, an elder of the Japanese nation. She was born in 1922 and raised in a Tokushima (Shikoku) Buddhist merchant family. After graduating from university, her sensational and often religiously-oriented literature rapidly established her as a highly popular social critic and media figure. In 1973, at the age of 51, Jakusho Setouchi took the Buddhist tonsure, after completing a demanding period of spiritual training in the Enryaku-ji Tendai monastery on Mount Hiei. She established her temple, known as Jaku-an, at the edge of the Sagano district (north of Arashiyama). Jakusho Setouchi was a modern and oftentimes controversial Buddhist commentator. Her actions have on occasion been overt. Her hunger strike against the Gulf War, which was broadcast nation-wide, was an excellent example for showing where her convictions lay. I interviewed Jakusho Setouchi in 1997 at Jaku-an, after much red tape, and she granted me exactly 60 minutes for the interview. And I got exactly 60 minutes and then I was ushered out of her presence. Jakusho Setouchi passed away on November 09, 2021.

YJPT: You were raised in a family that was intimately involved with Buddhism and you have been a practicing nun for over 24 years. What does Buddhism mean you?

Jakusho Setouchi: We often says that Buddhism is the religion of three lives — the life of the past, the life of the future, and the life of the present, which we are living now. These three lifetimes are connected, and the cycle of life, or being reborn, continues until one has reached enlightenment.

For example, you might think that when you are meeting a stranger that this is naturally the first time you have met. But according to Buddhism, you knew this person from a previous life. This also means that you may meet this person in a future lifetime as well. This philosophy helps people to give more importance to their consciousness and their behavior in society. And therefore, you are not as likely to treat those you meet lightly.

The point of Buddhism is to reach enlightenment and free oneself from the wheel of birth and death. There are six virtues or paramita for reaching enlightenment: charity, conscience, endurance, effort, meditation, and wisdom. If you accomplish the first five, you will naturally achieve the last one as a kind of reward. Wisdom comprises a much broader understanding than knowledge. For example, manufacturing poison sarin gas is based exclusively on knowledge. Knowing that sarin gas should not be used to harm people is wisdom.

I think it is very important to revive the understanding and respect for wisdom again in the Japanese people. Things which have form will disappear, but the things like wisdom, which are formless, last forever. I am now translating "The Tale of Genji" into modern Japanese so that more people can actually read it and learn something from our wise and gracious ancestors.

YJPT: August is the month when Obon ceremonies for the ancestors are held throughout Japan. What does Obon mean to the Japanese people?

Jakusho Setouchi: Obon is a Buddhism ceremony said to originate from a story concerning one of the Buddha's disciples. One day, one of Buddha's students was meditating on the death of his mother. With his high powers he could clearly see her struggling in pain and agony in hell. Frightened by his mother's situation, he asked the Buddha for help. The Buddha told him that his mother was nice person to you but greedy with other people. And that was why she was suffering in hell. The Buddha told his disciple that if he showed his devotion and love to his mother in his meditations that she would benefit. Ever since that time, Obon has existed as a time when the spirits of the ancestors, who watch over you in your daily life, return from the 'other' world and rejoin the 'family.'

YJPT: How does Buddhism effect or relate to the Japanese today?

Jakusho Setouchi: Like Obon, many Japanese customs developed from Buddhist or Shinto beliefs. However, today's highly Westernized Japanese society no longer understands the spiritual basis for these customs. Because of this Japan is in deep crisis. So, in answer to your question, I would have to say that Buddhism has very little effect if any on the Japanese of today.

YJPT: What is the reason for this? Whose fault do you think it is?

Jakusho Setouchi: The main reason for this is the near absence of religious faith in Japan. I don't only mean Buddhism, but also Shintoism and other forms of spiritual worship. What the Japanese believe in today is money. Money is the structure of modern Japanese society. Nobody would have imagined after the war that Japan would become as affluent and developed as it has in the last 50 years. But the problem behind our prosperity is that we have forgotten our soul in order to keep up appearances.

Our traditional and deeply-rooted family consciousness has been replaced by the limited and narrower concerns of the nuclear family system. As a result, respect for the elders has no value in modern Japanese society. Because of this I don't feel very positive at all about Japan's future prospects.

Another reason for today's crisis is that Japan more or less exclusively imitates or copies Western ideology. We give ourselves no space to digest these foreign ideas so that we can smoothly and properly combine them with Japanese understanding.

YJPT: Do you feel that Japan's spiritual crisis begins after the war or before?

Jakusho Setouchi: The pre-war and war period, in my opinion, was much healthier in this respect. It is true that we suffered from all kinds of things before and during the war. We were poor. There was starvation. And there was the brainwashing propaganda of the military. But even when someone didn't know where they would sleep the next night, or when a family has to send one of its men to the war, we still had an opportunity then to live in a way where we could really feel our life and spiritual world in everyday life. The young generation today is only rich in information and material satisfaction. I feel sorry for them, because they will never actually feel grateful to anyone for the fact that they have a life at all.

As I mentioned earlier, there is little hope. But if we realize this now, if we feel the necessity for change now, the future will be better. When Buddhism was alive in Japanese society, people appreciated their life. I pray that people will begin to appreciate their life and the life of others more. This is the secret of life.

Content by Japan travel specialist & designer Ian Martin Ropke, founder & owner of Your Japan Private Tours (YJPT, est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with all of YJPT's Japan private tour clients and have a great team behind me. I promote YJPT through this content and only advertise at www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip to save time & have a better time. Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search) is also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!