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Kyoto's Kyotamba district, Kyoto Pref. cherry viewing, painted fans

A Japanese hand-painted uchiwa fan.

This post covers three main topics and all of them are related to the region of Kyoto Prefecture. The first topic is the Tamba or Kyotamba district, which is near the northern edges of Osaka Prefecture, where there are also numerous hot spring resorts. The second topic covers the many famous cherry blossom viewing locations across Kyoto Prefecture, mostly ancient temples & shrines. The third topic relates to Japan's famous traditional uchiwa fan industry and hand-painted fan artists. Learn more!

Content by Ian Martin Ropke, owner of Your Japan Private Tours (est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with Japan private tour clients and have worked for all kinds of families, companies, and individuals since 1990. Clients find me mostly via organic search, and I advertise my custom Japan private tours & travel services on www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps in Japan! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip. And thank you for reading my content. I, Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search), am also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!

Kyoto's Tamba region is worth a visit for washi, wine and nature

Tamba or Kyotamba is on the northwestern side of Kyoto Prefecture (an hour west of the fascinating world of Miyamacho's thatched-roof houses), on the way to the Japan Sea. Tamba translates as 'red waves,' which is said to refer poetically to the region’s incredible sunsets. Besides its reputation for abundant nature and rustic landscapes, the Tamba area produces prized grapes, matsutake mushrooms, black soybeans, chestnuts, Tamba beef, Kyotamba pork, Tamba wine, and some of the best washi handmade paper in Japan. Kurodani, in the heart of the Kyotamba district, is world famous for its high-quality fine washi paper (handmade!). The tradition dates back to a member of the famous Taira clan (a super powerful late Heian period clan) who started paper making in this village nearly 800 years ago. Kurodani is worth the trip, the surrounding area is precious and the craft making process fascinating. The village is less than 15 minutes from Ayabe Station on the JR line.

Kyotamba is also part Japan's renowned Satoyama region, where people and nature live in harmony. The Satoyama concept is based on the idea of humans and nature coexisting and charaterized by lots of secondary woodlands and grasslands near small villages.

Major Tamba cultural attractions

Tamba-yaki pottery: Tama-yaki potter has been made in the Kyotamba region since the 12th century. There are still some 60 kilns working in Tamba's pottery village. If you are interested in pottery then Tamba-yaki is something you can experience at the studio of a local potter family.

Kurodani Washi Exhibition Hall: Information on washi handmade paper experiences (limited English) including paper making workshops, tours of the paper workshops and homes in the surrounding area. Tel: (0773) 44-0213.

Tamba Wine: Tamba wine is also worth trying and learning about. There are numerous vineyards in the area with everything from whites to reds.

Watanabe House: This traditional home, a designated Important Cultural Asset, has been turned into a museum. Tel: (0771) 83 - 0721.

Inakaya Sorashido farmhouse: This farmhouse, now over 120 years old, you can experience old-world cooking, using a traditional kamado stove and hibachi (charcoal brazier). The fields around the house are planted in the old ways with rice and vegetable crops. Details: https://i-sorashido.com/

Places to stay: The Tamba area has many minshuku inns and ryokan inn and also a fair number of modern hotels. On Google Maps input Kyotamba, Funai district and then look for hotels or minshuku using "Nearby." Then look at the pictures and then pick the best spot for you and your family.

Tamba area information in English: Tel: 0771-371-5649.

Cherry blossom viewing outside of Kyoto

Miyazu City: Home to famous Amano Hashidate, a unique, 3.6 km-long, white-sand spit, Miyazu City also has excellent cherry groves. The annual area cherry festival (sometime during the 1st two weeks of April; call for details), at nearby Takigami Park, will feature a Karaoke competition, and many stalls selling food. Tel: (0772) 22-0670. To get there: Miyazu City can be reached by a direct train from JR Kyoto Station (5 times a day; the trip takes about 95 min.; for JR schedule information call 352-5441). The park is near Sanno Bashi, a short bus ride from the station.

Mineyama Town: On a hill covered with cherry blossoms (4/7, 14:00-21:00; 4/8, 10:00-15:00), Yakushigaoka Mori Sakura Park will be the venue for a small concert, street stalls and other lively events. Tel: (0772) 62-7701. To get there: take the JR Sanin line Hashidate Ltd. Express (departs 5 times a day) to Amano Hashidate, transfer to the KTR Miyazu line to Mineyama. and then transfer to a Tankai bus to central Mineyama. The park is 5 to 10 minutes from the bus stop.

Ayabe City: At local Yamaga Joshi Park (first two weeks of April; 10:00-16:00) under blooming cherry trees, Japanese taiko drumming, karaoke, local food and craft stalls will be featured. Tel: (0773) 42-9550. To get there: Take the JR Sanin kaisoku limited-semi-express train to Sonobe, then transfer to kakueki local train to Yamaga Stn.

Miyama Town: Miyama Town has breathtaking rural scenery, the most thatched roof houses of any place in Japan (about 250), and the Ashu virgin forest is a hiking paradise. Ohno Dam Sakura Matsuri: Over 1,000 cherry trees are open for viewing (day and night!) along the Ohno Dam (4/8-15; 9:00 to 21:00); on the 14th there will be a fireworks display (19:30; in the event of rain, postponed to 4/15); the sale of fresh vegetables and a photo contest will also featured. Tel: (0771) 75-1906. To get there: take the JR Sanin line and get off at Wachi Stn., transfer to the local town bus (about 20 minutes) and get off at Ohno Dam.

Muko City: Though small, this city, is rich in nature and history. At Muko Shrine (4/7, 10:45-20:00; 4/8, 10:30-18:00) a cherry festival will be held featuring outdoor tea ceremony, flower arrangement displays, and numerous stalls selling food, etc. On the 7th, from around 18:00, a fire will be lit in the garden of the shrine. To get there: Take a JR Tokaido kakueki local train from JR Kyoto Stn. (10 min.) to Muko, or the Hankyu kakueki local train to Higashi or Nishi Muko (15 min.) then transfer to a local bus.

Uji City: Uji has been attracting writers since ancient times. Perfectly set along the Uji River, the area has two UNESCO World Heritage sites. English volunteer guides are available between 9:00-17:00 for ¥1,000/person (reserve 7 days in advance; Tel: (0774) 22-5083). Uji River Sakura Matsuri: A tea ceremony and pottery market will be held (4/7, 8; 10:00-16:00) in a cherry tree covered island park (Uji Nakanoshima Park). Tel: (0774) 23-3334. To get there: take the JR Nara line to Uji (kyuko semi-express train; 17 minutes) or Keihan Uji line (local; 40 minutes). The park is about 13 minutes walk from either station.

Yawata City: Located between Kyoto and Osaka, Yawata developed as a prosperous town on the river transport system between Kyoto and Osaka. A 1.4 km stretch of the river, the Sewaritei area, is lined with about 250 cherry trees. Bring your lunch and relax outdoors here. Tel: 983-1111. Otokoyama Sakura Matsuri: Iwasihmizu Hachiman-gu Shrine (built in 1634) has an amazing Main Hall exquisitely decorated with animal and plants carvings. Every year (4/1-30) a wide range of cherry blossom celebratory events are held here, including: 1) Sogetsu School flower arrangement exhibition (4/1-15); imperial court dance (4/3; 14:00-15:00); shakuhachi and koto concert (4/7; 11:30-12:30); outdoor tea ceremony (4/8; 10:00-14:00, ¥300); free tea ceremony (4/8; 10:00-14:00). Schedules subject to change, so call (Tel: 981-3001) to make sure. To get there: take the Keihan line to Yawata (fast train, 20 minutes). Sewaritei is about 10-min; the shrine is about 20-min. walk from the station.

Kasagi Town: Kasagi Town is a peaceful rural area famous for its many, ancient, open-air stone Buddha statues, important temples, shrines and ruins, all spread out over an area of gently rolling countryside. In spring, Kasagi is famed for its cherry blossoms, and on the 1st or 2nd Sunday of April (10:00-15:00) the Izumi-ji Sakura Festival, featuring traditional plays, live music, food, and stalls, is held in front of the train station (near Kasagi Mountain; one of the top 100 cherry viewing places in Japan). Tel: (0774) 76-3611. To get there: Take the JR Nara line to Kizu Stn.; transfer to the Kansai-honsen line and get off at Kasagi Stn.

Ujidawara Town: Over 80% of this town is green with endless tea bush plantations. For 5 days (during the first half of April) a local rural road, Yasuragi no Michi, lined with cherry trees, is open to the public. Tel: (0774) 88-4180. To get there: Take a JR Nara local train from Kyoto Stn. to Uji Stn. or a Kintetsu Kyoto train to Shintanabe Stn. Transfer at either station to a Keihan Uji Kotsu bus bound for Ichu-mae. Get out at Ujidawara.

Ide Town: This forest and hill surrounded town is home to an extensive range of historical ruins dating from the Nara and Heian periods. In the spring, the very old weeping cherry trees at Jizozen-in Temple attract many admirers, and in early April (for about 10 days), along the Tamagawa River, cherry blossom viewing events and street stalls will be open. Tel: (0774) 82-2001. To get there: take a JR Nara kakueki local train to Yamashiro Taga or Tamamizu stn. (40 min.), and walk for about 5 minutes.

Kizu Town: This town will hold the Midori to Fureai Sakura Matsuri featuring a tea ceremony and a koto, shakuhachi concert (4/7; 10:00-15:00). A small handmade plate and flower seeds will be given to the first 500 visitors. Tel: (0774) 72-6050. To get there: take the JR Nara line from Kyoto Stn. to Kizu (40 minutes by kyuko semi-express train).

April festival highlights in Kyoto Prefecture

Fukuchiyama Castle Festival (4/7-8): a historical parade with traditional costumes, dance, etc. Near JR Fukuchiyama Stn. Tel: (0773) 22-2108.

Tsutsukawa Festival (4/25): traditional dance (9:00-13:00) at a 16th-century. In Ine Town. Tel: (0772) 32-0277.

Kayadani Festival (4/28-29): this festival features all kinds of traditional events and performances. In Kaya Town (Tel: (0772) 43-2191) and Nodagawa Town (Tel: (0772) 44-2086).

Unique Buddhist sculpture masterworks for sickness & happiness

Kyoto has more Buddhist statues than any other place in Japan. Some of them are National Treasures and a few are rarely open to public viewing. However, all of them possess a mysterious power that is undeniable. The master sculptors that created them were so skilled that they were able to give each statue a unique spiritual energy. Below are three temples where Buddhist statues are particularly powerful and easy to see. Each of them has a fascinating background and each of them has the power to calm the heart of the viewer.

Anao-ji Temple’s “Reclining Buddha”: This temple is the 21st station on the well-known 33-temple Western Japan pilgrimage route. Anao-ji’s 70-year-old Buddha, as its name suggests, is reclined under a blanket. Under the head is a lotus-flower-shaped pillow. The figure is a beautiful shiny black. When you gaze at it you can almost hear the Buddha’s breathing. There is a story about this Buddha that concerns a monk whose beautiful grand daughter was very sick. He searched for a Buddha to cure her and this was the one. Today, many people come her and rub the part of the Buddha where they are sick. Touching the Buddha at this location is completely OK. Open: 9:00-16:00. Entry: ¥300. Access: Take the JR Sagano Line from Kyoto Stn. to Kameoka Stn; then take a 15-min. bus ride to Anaoguchi bus stop. Tel: 0771-24-0809.

Seigen-ji Temple’s “Juroku Rakan”: This quiet temple in Yagi-cho, a little west of Kameoka City is home to 16 precious wooden figures of Rakan. All of the figures were carved by the monk Myoman in 1806. Also known as Mokujiki, Myoman ate only nuts, berries, and a kind of buckwheat known as mokujiki. All the figures have round, gently smiling faces, each with a slightly different expression. On the back of 15 of the figures is written Rakan, the date of completion and Myoman’s signature. Only the last one has a different signature because Myoman was told to change his name in a dream. Seeing these figures will surely make you smile too. Note: to visit this temple you must make a reservation in advance. Open: 9:00-16:30. Entry: donation. Access: Take the JR Sagano line from Kyoto Stn. to Yagi Stn.; from there take a 10-min. taxi ride. Tel: 0771-42-3743.

Zenrin-ji Eikando Temple’s “Mikaeri Amida”: This 77-cm high wooden Amitabha Buddha figures is believed to have been carved in the early Kamakura period (1185-1333). There is a famous legend connected with the figure. A long time ago, the monk Eikan, the founder of this Jodoshu sect temple, was doing walking meditation around the statue. To his great surprise, the Buddha got off his altar and began walking in circles too. Eikan was so amazed that he stopped walking and froze. Then the Buddha turned his face back to Eikan and said: “Eikan Ososhi” (Eikan, you are slow.). Since that time, the figure has always had its head turned over his shoulder. The strong smile on the figure’s face is said to lead people to enlightenment. Open: 9:00-16:00. Entry: ¥500. Access: Take city bus #5 from Kyoto Stn. to Nanzen-ji Eikando-mae; then walk 15 min. to the east. Tel: 761-0007.

The life of fan maker Etsuko Kawashima

This content is about Kyoto native Etsuko Kawashima's hand-painted fan work in the 1990s (1991 to be exact). Etsuko first began to paint fans five years ago (in 1986), when her Japanese dance teacher wanted original fans to express the spirit of a new dance. Kawashima, who had been painting since high school, worked closely with the teacher to develop a series of abstract images. The exercise intrigued her because the shape of the fan compelled a different type of composition from that of conventional painting. She also enjoyed seeing her work in motion, in the context of the dance. Kawashima usually works in the evenings, in a small studio in her family's ryokan (a traditional Japanese-style inn) in central Kyoto.

Fan-making in Japan has traditionally been an anonymous craft. There are no famous fan painters, although many artists who later gained renown for their paintings began by paintings fans. Fans now are generally made at large shops, with employees doing the brushwork for standard designs.

Few people paint fans independently. Kawashima, though, says, "I enjoy working alone because I can choose my own subjects and work in my own style." While she values her artistic freedom, Kawashima also says that developing her own designs is the hardest part of painting. A fan that takes only a few days to paint may take a month of careful planning, as she considers the composition, the customer's wishes, and the fan's intended use.

Encouraged by teachers and influenced by the student works of a late uncle, Kawashima studied Western oil painting and Japanese traditional art at school. After graduating from Kyoto Kyoiku Daigaku (Kyoto Educational College) with a degree in art education, she applied her skills to restoration work, cleaning and repairing damaged portraits of Buddhist priests.

She still finds an interesting challenge in restoration, "It's like detective work," she says. "I have to figure out what the missing parts are and then fit them back into what remains."

She paints six types of fans, distinguishable by size, subject, and mounting. The six types are for singers, dancers, for people involved in traditional drama or the tea ceremony, for decoration, and, of course, for keeping cool in summer. Display fans, the only one-sided fans and the largest at about 36 cm tall, are painted with traditional lucky motifs such as cranes, peonies, and Mount Fuji. Tea ceremony fans, the smallest at just 18 cm, are painted with seasonal motifs. Summer fans are also seasonal, generally painted quite simply with cooling scenes of birds, insects or flowers.

Kawashima takes the inspiration for her fans from a variety of sources including pictures, fabrics, even wrapping paper. Among traditional sources she especially admires Japanese paintings from the Momoyama period (1576-1603), for their wide scope and soft atmosphere.

Dance fans, because they're made for particular dances, encompass a wide range of subjects from the seasonal to the abstract. Another type are fans for fans of singers. Since the customer intends to present it to his or her favorite singer, it's usually painted to suggest that singer's perhaps using a character from her name for the illustration. Fans for kyogen and Noh performances follow traditional designs.

When the theme of the fan has been decided, Kawashima does several studies, composing pictures for both sides before she begins the final piece. She paints on paper that has been specially prepared, pressed in layers and cut just slightly larger than the finished work. After the painting is finished, Kawashima sends it to a craft shop where it is trimmed and mounted on bamboo spines, and its edges are brushed with gold. From five to 40 spines are inserted, depending on the type of fan. Performers' fans are stitched onto their spines for strength, and weighted so the fan will flip and spin more easily.

Japan's amazing fans, hand painted or not, can be shipped anywhere in the world and they weigh very little.

Content by Japan travel specialist & designer Ian Martin Ropke, founder & owner of Your Japan Private Tours (YJPT, est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with all of YJPT's Japan private tour clients and have a great team behind me. I promote YJPT through this content and only advertise at www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip to save time & have a better time. Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search) is also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!