Ryoan-ji Zen wow, Kasagi's Buddha boulders, high-value spring events
For the first-time tourist, no trip to Kyoto is complete without a visit to Ryoan-ji Temple’s famous Zen dry landscape (karesansui) garden. This garden, and others like it, are known throughout the world.
Sitting on the time-worn wooden, slightly raised verandah of Ryoan-ji, the visitor at first is speechless. One simply sits silently and admires the perfection of the garden.
It is an elemental, undecorated space: 15 black stones of different sizes and shapes, sitting on moss pads, all oddly arranged on a raked bed of off-white gravel. There are no trees, no bushes: just the time-stained earthen wall surrounding the garden.
The Japanese writer, Minakami Tsutomo wrote: ‘ I can’t not figure out the meaning of the garden.’ But understanding the garden may not be important. Contemplating it, in silence, for as long as possible, is what really matters.
However, Ryoan-ji is more than just its garden. There is also the big pond out front: a wonderful and calming place to contemplate human existence and the wonders of nature.
The Ryoan-ji pond blooms brightly with lotus flowers in summer. The flower springs forth out of the muddy bottom of the pond. Its short-lived blossoms suggest reincarnation; the shiny, green, wheel-like leaves and spike-shaped petals imply the perpetual cycle of existence; and the pure flowers rising from the mud symbolize enlightenment. Even after blooming, the lotus is beautiful.
In autumn, the pond is home to the lush and flowing hagi bush, which seems to gush dark green leaves and tiny, pale red flowers all over the path. Looking up, you will see the distant, wispy clouds of autumn crossing the bright blue sky.
Ryoan-ji is also home to an excellent traditional buckwheat (soba) noodle restaurant. Soba is more popular among Kanto (Tokyo) area people; udon (thick, white wheat noodles) is preferred in the Kansai (Kyoto, Osaka) area. But here at Ryoan-ji Temple, the soba is delicious.
George Lucas visited Ryoan-ji in the 1980s. I read his comments and was so surprised. It was then that I learned that inspiration for Star War (broad strokes) was a famous Japanese black and white movie by Akira Kurosawa (likely Japan's most famous international film director; after Miyazaki maybe . . .). Darth Vader is based on a Tokugawa shogun at the end of the Edo period. The good guys or the Empire are the samurai lords who were never aligned with Tokugawa Vader. Historically, they are from southwestern Shikoku Island and southern Kyushu Island. The samurai lords or daimyo of these areas finally overthrew Darth Vader in 1868. And overnight, the Emperor was restored to pollical powers (after being a "puppet" to Japan's warlords for nearly 700 years! Another Kurosawa film that was remade by Hollywood is "The Magnificent Seven" western (remade twice I believe!).
In fact, everything about Ryoan-ji is special. Be sure to visit and spend some time in the area.
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Content by Ian Martin Ropke, owner of Your Japan Private Tours (est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with Japan private tour clients and have worked for all kinds of families, companies, and individuals since 1990. Clients find me mostly via organic search, and I advertise my custom Japan private tours & travel services on www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps in Japan! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip. And thank you for reading my content. I, Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search), am also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!
Southern Kyoto's ancient Buddhas & boulders
A visit to Kasagi, the southernmost town in Kyoto Prefecture, is a journey back to Japan's ancient roots.
Those who venture to Kasagi will find it still abounds in natural splendor. Kasagi is famed for its cherry blossoms and maple leaves, and favored by campers and canoers for summer recreation. Canoes and equipment can be rented by the Kasagi Bridge, and, starting the 21st of this month, lessons will be given on weekends and holidays. A public campground on the river bank is open free to the general public. With a population of only 2,500 people, Kasagi has a small-town atmosphere, where those seeking physical and spiritual stimulus will find relief from the big city and all its demands.
As recorded in the 14th century chronicles known as the Taiheiki, Kasagi was where Emperor Godaigo fled during civil war with the shogun and the remains of his retreat can be seen on the summit of 289 meter-high Mt. Kasagi, one of several mountains overlooking the town. A guide to the ruins and to Kasagi’s other attractions, including its famous rocks, can be obtained at the Kasagi Sangyo Shinko Kaikan (Industrial Center), right next to the station.
The winding way up Mt. Kasagi offers the visitor a strenuous stroll and exceptional views of the river valley below. One of the course's first attractions is a stand of giant boulders, where devotees once came (and perhaps still do) to pray to the natural deities of these giant stones. On one boulder, an 8th century monk from Todai-ji Temple in Nara carved a simple image of the Miroku Bosatsu. Early in the 9th century, a graceful twelve meter-high line drawing of the Kokuzo Bosatsu was carved on a second granite monolith. Practicing monks at one time trained themselves physically and mentally by dangling each other from atop the rock; the terror this induced encouraged thoughts of their own mortality.
Because it was a site of Buddhist worship, the mountain took on a reputation as a gateway to the next world.
The path also takes one past the Yurugi-ishi, or Unstable Rock, a boulder of army-crunching potential, which was used centuries ago in a failed attempt to threaten approaching attackers, and which can still be jiggled with one hand.
Not all of Kasagi's charms are located outdoors. Visitors might enjoy viewing the historical displays on exhibit at the Sangyo Shinko Kaikan. Or, for a gastronomic treat, consider partaking of one of Kasagi’s specialties, kiji-nabe (pheasant stew) or wonderful botan-nabe (wild boar stew).
If you have time, and happen to be coming by car, a side-trip to Yagyu in neighboring Nara Prefecture will take you into the hills past tumbling waterfalls and wet cedar forests. Besides several shrines, the town's other attractions include a small museum located in what was formerly the Imperial Minister’s Residence. Buses to Nara leave from Yagyu village throughout the day, but do not go to Kasagi.
Getting to Kasagi: From JR Kyoto Station, take the Nara Line Limited Express to Kizu. In Kizu, change to a local train and continue to Kamo. In Kamo, a quick change (2 minutes) to a tiny diesel-powered train will get you to Kasagi. Total travel time is roughly 90 minutes. For more information, call (in Japanese) the Kasagi Town Government Offices, Tel: 074395-2301.
High-value Kyoto Prefecture spring season events
Uji City (various dates): The city of Uji is centrally located around the beautiful Uji River, and is graced with many temples and shrines, which is indicative of Uji city's long history and rich culture.You can also find here two UNESCO World Heritage sites:Ujigami Shrine and Byodoin Temple registered in December, 1994. Between the 15th and 16th centuries, this area was the location of many battles as various Shogun's fought for control of Japan. When you read Japanese classics such as "Nihon-Shoki"(the Chronicles of Japan) and "Manyoshu" (the Anthology of Myriad), you can find the Uji name, which is also the main setting for the "Ten Chapters of Uji" in The Tale of Genji, the oldest and one of the most famous love stories in the world. Uji River Cherry Blossom Festival (4/6-7): Along the culturally rich, highly scenic section (Nakanoshima area) of the Uji River on these two days, look for local pottery, craft stalls and tea ceremony under a pink cloud of blossoms. Mampukuji Kaizanki Ritual (4/3): This magnificently designed and generously laid out 400-year-old Chinese Zen temple (Obaku sect) exerted a powerful influence on the revival of Zen discipline during the Edo period (1600-1868). A unique Chinese rite will be held here on this day starting from 10:30 (Tel: 0774-21-3014). Access: JR Nara line or Keihan Uji line, to Uji or Obaku Sta.
Oyamazaki Town Flower Festival (4/7): There are 200 magnificent cherry trees within the compound of Kannon-ji Temple (said to bring luck to business). On this day, at 11:00 chanting, accompanied by traditional music, will be held, followed by a unique nenbutsu dance on a special stage at 12:00. Ceremonial sake will also be served (Tel: 075-921-0016). Access: JR Tokaido local line to Yamazaki Sta., or Hankyu Kyoto line to Oyamazaki Sta.
Muko City Cherry Blossom Festival (4/6, 7): Muko Shrine, a fabulous Muromachi period (1333-1568) structure, has an exquisite tunnel of cherry trees. On this day tea ceremony, flower arrangement, folk songs, dance and drum performances will be held here. For more info: Tel: 075-921-0217. Access: JR Tokaido line to Muko-machi, or Hankyu Kyoto line to Nishimuko.
Miyama Town Ashiu Virgin Forest: Spread around the headwaters of the Yura River, this 4,200 hectare forest, home to countless wild trees and streams, has never been touched by the logging industry. From late April onwards, professional guided tours of the area are given (in Japanese). Non-guided access is also OK. For more info Tel: 0771-77-0014. Access: JR bus from Kyoto Sta. for Shuzan; then change to Miyama Town bus for Agake; then take bus bound for Chimiguchi or Shizen Bunka Mura (say Ashiu to driver).
Mimuroto Temple (early June-early July): In the wide garden of this old temple there are 30 different kinds of hydrangea. At night, 6/10-25, the garden is lit up (19:00-21:00). Tel: (0774) 21-2067. To get to the temple, take the Keihan line (change at Chushojima) or JR Nara line to Uji.
Rice planting ritual (6/6): This rice growing ritual (to ensure a good harvest), at Make Shrine in Sonobe Town, features 13 girls, in traditional costume, dancing and singing. To get to Sonobe, take the JR Sagano line from Kyoto Stn. Tel: (0771) 62-1169.
Wachi Firefly Fantasy (end of June): This little town is wellknown for its dream-like June nights, filled with the magical glow of fireflies floating over the fields and rivers. To get to Wachi, take the JR Sagano line from Kyoto Stn. to Wachi. Tel: (0771) 84-1416.
Fukuchiyama City: Fukuchiyama City, located on the western edge of Kyoto Prefecture, next to Hyogo Prefecture, is situated in a large valley surrounded by forests and agricultural fields. The area has a long and colorful history, including the story of its famous castle. Fukuchiyama Castle was built in the late Muromachi period (1333-1568) by Akechi Mitsuhide, the general who killed his own master (the warlord Oda Nobunaga). In addition to its natural attractions, the area is also home to a number of well-preserved, ancient temples and shrines.
Area highlights: Kannon Temple: Also known as the hydrangea temple, Kannon Temple has over 100 different kinds of hydrangea varieties. These flowers are especially beautiful on a rainy day. Tel: (0773) 27-1618. Fukuchiyama Castle: Akechi Mitsuhide rebuilt this old fort, which was first owned by the Yokoyama daimyo, into a leading castle of its age. Though today’s castle was newly rebuilt in 1963, the original hedge, well, and checkpoint gates remain. The present, 3-story keep has a small museum built into one corner. Cho-an Temple: This temple was built by the younger brother of Shotoku Taishi (574-622). It is home to an important 11th century wooden statue of the Yakushi Nyorai (Physician of the Souls Buddha), and has a superb stone-filled garden full of seasonal flowers. It is famous in autumn for its stunning maple trees. Tennei Temple: The oldest temple in the Tamba area, Tennei Temple was established in 1365. Exceptionally quiet, the temple has a particularly soothing mood. Most of the current buildings date from the latter part of the Edo period (1600-1868). The main hall was rebuilt in the traditional style in 1963. Tel: (0773) 33-3448. To get to Fukuchiyama City, take the JR Sanin line express train to Fukuchiyama (80 min.).
Yakuno Town: Geological wonders, wine and outdoor fun: Located in northwestern part of Kyoto Prefecture, Yakuno Town has the prefecture’s only volcano, which, though long dead, has left behind a great number of interesting geological formations. The Yakuno highland was largely formed by lava during the last eruption (300-400 thousand years ago). The area also has an interesting variety of fossils. Yakuno is perfect for bird watching, hiking, and all kinds of other outdoor activities, which can be enjoyed at the area’s many excellent facilities.
Area highlights: Yakuno Highland: Rich in natural beauty and a wide range of wild flowers, this highland, formed by the last eruption of the Takara volcano, is highly popular. Enman-in Temple: Famous for hydrangea (June), the garden at this temple (lit up at night) has a stunning view. Tel: (0773) 38-0364. Yakuno Genbu Park: This park features a rare formation of hexagonal pillars, formed by drying lava. Yakuno Tea Room: Built in the Kansei period (1789-1801), this tea ceremony house and water source was constructed by a travelling Zen priest when he discovered the people in the area were having trouble finding drinking water. Today, the place continues to be a shrine to tea lovers and tourists alike. Yakuno Highland Stone Buddhas: This 88 stone Buddha pilgrimage begins at the above-mentioned tea ceremony room and follows a path around two mountains. The tour takes about 4 hours. The statues were carved from 1816 to 1817 by a local carver. No Sho no Sato Yakuno: Built on the highland’s rich, black volcanic soil, at this complex visitors can experience agricultural life, make Japanese sweets, drink tea in a fine tea house, relax in the local hot spring, and stay the night at Yakuno Villa (¥4,300; Tel: (0773) 38-9800). To get to Yakuno town, take the JR Sanin express line to Fukuchiyama (80 min.) and change to the local line to Shimo Yakuno or Kami Yakuno Station. For area info, call (0773) 37-1101.
Yasaka Town: Swiss Village, hot spas, and the great outdoors: Yasaka town is situated in the middle of the spectacular and wildly beautiful Tango Peninsula, one of Japan’s best kept tourist secrets! Set beside the Takeno River, the town is surrounded by picturesque rice fields, forests and all kinds of ancient reminders of the past. In a bid to greatly increase tourist traffic, the town is currently building Tango Tasteful Town, based around the classical features of an old European farm market town.
Area highlights: Swiss Village: Located at an altitude of 500-600 meters, this theme village has a huge range of facilities, including tennis courts, a 232-meter water slide, camping grounds, a tastefully designed range of cottages and bungalows, and a hot spa that has a spectacular view of the Japan Sea. Tel: (0772) 66-0036. Tango Tasteful Agricultural Park: Roughly the size of 8-baseball fields, this park was designed to look like a European country village. Here, visitors can sample (or make) fresh bread and butter, sausages and other foods. And for fun, children and adults alike can rent bicycles, herd sheep with a sheep dog, and enjoy other interesting European attractions. Tel: (0772) 65-4193. Yasaka Ashiginu Onsen (hot spring): Located on a small hill, this hot spa has a number of outdoor baths, with balconies that look out on the entire Yasaka plateau and the surrounding forest. Tel: (0772) 65-2000. To get to Yasaka Town, take the JR Sanin line Explorer to Mineyama Station (about 160 minutes). From Mineyama the area’s main attractions can be accessed via the local Tankai bus from Mizotani (about 10 minutes).
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Content by Japan travel specialist & designer Ian Martin Ropke, founder & owner of Your Japan Private Tours (YJPT, est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with all of YJPT's Japan private tour clients and have a great team behind me. I promote YJPT through this content and only advertise at www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip to save time & have a better time. Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search) is also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!