May moods, foods, nature, rural getaways, shopping ideas

Koinobori carp streamers

Swimming above the rooftops

The big black papa carp

And his little red sons.

From a popular old traditional Japanese song

It's May and for travelers May is sometimes referred to as champagne weather. Warm days, cool evenings and exhilaration in the trees and amongst the ground plants and bushes. The first green leaves of the year, either in the cities or later up in the hills, are just buzzing with spring energy. You will feel it!

In this blog post I will cover a few topics, mostly related to May but not entirely . . .

Japan in May: So many moods & magical possibilities

May, a month of great change, is traditionally regarded as the beginning of summer in Japan, particularly in the central coastal regions of Honshu. It is a month of much activity in every sense of the word, beginning with a riot of new green leaves as Golden Week sends much of the nation into travel mode. In Kyoto, citizens become noticeably more energetic, and on weekends the streets seem to fairly overflow with out-of-town tourists. On the social scene, May is especially cherished by poets and tea ceremony aficionados.

Activity, however, is most apparent as you become aware of the sudden surge of energy in the natural world. The forests become livelier by the day with bird song as countless summer residents return from their southern winter homes, and everywhere there is a growing diversity of newness: new flowering bushes, new plants, new leaves, new insects, newness in all directions. Because of Kyoto’s unique climate, an exotic combination of tropical and temperate elements, and its richly endowed geographical features, the feeling of spring is strong to the point of inducing a mild form of drunkenness. And if one had to suggest a suitable alcoholic beverage for May, champagne would certainly suit the effervescence and joy of this month. As the days get warmer and the days grow longer, the spirit seems to almost lose itself in the successive waves of fine weather and sweet air.

Finally, though a part of Western tradition, May is also the month when the world, for those who remember, celebrate Mother’s Day the (second Sunday of May). Not surprising, roses, being the perfect gift for mother, flower profusely this month.

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Space: Late spring celebrations & moments

Kyoto living in May is taken up with celebrations in an outdoor world that is pleasantly warm all day long. Average May temperatures, like those of October, seems ideally suited to human living, and one need no longer worry about a sudden chill or bring an extra layer of clothing just in case.

May is a month crowded with outdoor celebration. Aoi Matsuri, Kyoto’s oldest most famous festival, and the exotic river rituals of the Mifune Matsuri both take place this month. Another eagerly anticipated event is Takigi or Torch-lit Noh. This magical spectacle of ancient costumes, masks and ritual is usually held against a suitably gorgeous background. Nara’s Kofuku-ji Temple hold’s its annual Takigi Noh performance on the 11th and 12th of May. At Kyoto’s Heian Shrine the event is delayed until the first and second of June.

For those interested in flower arrangement, one accessory prominently used to advantage in May are baskets or kabin kago woven of vines. These can be hung on the wall and filled with a segment of a flowering vine such as a clematis, or placed on an entranceway or hallway table. These baskets make an ideal souvenir to take home and use for flower arrangements.

Food: From fern fiddle heads to tea

The green month of May heralds the first tea harvest of the year. On or around May 2nd, 88 days after risshun (the first day of spring according to the old lunar calendar), picking of the newest tea leaves begins. Uji, in southwestern Kyoto, where you can see pickers in their traditional outfits busily harvesting tea throughout May, is home to some of Japan’s finest tea plantations. The first harvested tea, ichiban-cha or shin-cha, is the most expensive because it is the sweetest and mildest in taste. This is very important for the Japanese tea ceremony! With each successive harvest, the tannin level in the leaves becomes more noticeable, lending a characteristic bitterness to the tea. For tea connoisseurs, the first harvest is an eagerly-awaited event. Appropriately, some of the very first tea leaves tea, are offered to the gods in the Kencha Sai Festival at Uji-gami Shrine on May 5th. At the same shrine, on June 1st, for 1,500 you can enjoy a tea ceremony, a light, beautifully arranged meal, and the satisfaction of being one of the first to savor the very finest of the year’s harvest (for more information: Tel: 0774-23-2243).

The Children's Day festival of May brings with it two traditional sweets welcomed by child and adult alike. Chimaki are elongated pieces of mochi (pounded sticky rice) wrapped and steamed in the aromatic leaves of the dwarf bamboo. They usually come tied together in bundles of five. Then there's kashiwa-mochi, another variation on mochi, this time wrapped in a kind of oak leaf. It comes filled with either bean paste or, my absolute favorite, sweet miso. On May 5th these sweets are usually set on a little stand which is placed in front of the family's set of toy samurai armor. The standard food fare for the Children's Day festival is "scattered" sushi (called chirashi-zushi when ordered from a sushi shop or bara-zushi if home made). A bed of vinegar-flavored sushi rice is decorated with shrimp, sashimi, green peas and then sprinkled with slivers of omelette--perfect for a picnic or a quick snack.

From 9 to 90, us kids love junk! Funahashiya is a kite, old-style candy (amazing colors, images and nostalgia), and rice cracker shop on Teramachi that offers plenty to please both the palate and the eye. The kites, decorated with dragons, carp, and various heroes, usually samurai, are a visual delight. Tradition demands that when a son is born, his name be written on the back of a kite which the father then flies--just another excuse to be a kid! Of course, Funahashiya's owner, Mr. Tsuji, is still a child at heart. He not only sells kites but makes his own and on occasion teaches kite-making. He has several books for sale on the subject in the back of the store. Funahashiya: on the west side of Teramachi, 100 meters south of Shijo; open 10:30 - 7, closed on Thursdays some weeks.

This month in Japanese restaurants look for katsuo or bonito, a variety of tuna that is served raw. Another thing to look for are mountain vegetables or sansai, wild delicacies that grow in the mountains at this time of year. Common delicacies include warabi (bracken), zenmai (flowering fern), seri (Japanese watercress), yomogi (mugwort), and tara no me (for which there's no English equivalent). Although sansai can be prepared many ways, they are usually boiled and then flavored with mustard, sesame seed, vinegar, soysauce, or sweet sake. They can also be cooked with rice, or made into a delicious tempura. From June onwards, the menu increasingly features ayu, a small kind of river trout that is as beautiful to look at as it is tasty, and very popular on yuka menus. Cold somen noodles are also recommended.

Nature: New leaves, first tea, irises, peonies . . .

When it comes to color May is best symbolized by green and purple. The first fresh green spring leaves are called wakaba in Japanese or young leaves. These can be seen as a luminous fresh glow on the mountainsides surrounding the city, a phenomena that lasts until nearly the end of the month when they gradually turn to the final darker greens of June. Another green is that of the different kinds of irises that bloom in profusion in the city’s many Japanese garden ponds. The iris, which grows so straight and seems so very full of life, is a symbol of good health and makes an ideal gift for someone who is not feeling up to form.

Another May motif, often seen in scrolls and paintings, is that of tiny Chinese dogs frolicking in a flowering background of peonies. Peonies, favored for their rich reds and subtle pinks, have flowers the size of large human hand. They are harder to find in abundance, but can often be seen as potted plants.

Wisteria: From the end of April to around the middle of May, Kyoto is the perfect place to experience the beauty of wisteria (fuji) in full bloom. Prominent places to see this vine, with its nearly 40-centimeter-long flowers, are: Myoshin-ji Temple, Kamigamo Shrine, the Sento Gosho (the southeast quadrant of the Imperial Palace; reservations via the Imperial Household Agency necessary), and Jonangu Temple.

Azaleas: Zuishin-in Temple: until early May; a 5-min. walk from Ono Stn. on the Tozai subway line. Tel: 571-0025. Myoman-ji Temple: early May to early June; a 5-min. walk from Kino Stn. on the Eizan railway line. Tel: 791-7171. Chishaku-in Temple: early May. Tel: 541-5361.

Irises: May is iris month in Kyoto. Besides inspiring countless paintings and poems, the iris is also important to medicine. After the flower has bloomed, the leaves can be cut and bundled and added to the family bath to purge the body of impurities. The flower blooms twice, so you are sure to see several hundred in bloom anytime during the month of May. Here are some of the city's most celebrated iris-viewing gardens. If you only have time for one, make it Ohta Shrine, in the northern part of Kyoto. Ohta Shrine: Famous for its thousands of rabbit-eared irises (kakitsubata) that bloom in its ancient pond, this shrine is in the precincts of one of Kyoto's most famous Shinto shrines, Kamigamo Shrine. The irises, the massive cryptomeria trees, and the twittering of birds are Ohta Shrine’s simple offering—you won’t be sorry you came. The garden can be viewed at any time. Entry is free, but a small donation is requested. The shrine is just east of Kamigamo Shrine. Heian Shrine: The spacious stroll garden here is famous for seasonal flowers. While azaleas dominate this month, hana-shobu will be in bloom along the banks of the pond during June. Admission is Yen 500. Open 8:30-17:30. Located north of Nijo/Jingu-michi.

Peonies: Beautiful Otokuni-dera Temple (until early May) is the best in Kyoto for botan. The temple is a short walk southwest of Hankyu Nishi Muko Stn; Tel: 951-5759. Nara’s Hase-dera Temple is probably the most famous peony temple in Japan (for more info call Nara TIC).

Kyoto May Fun: Ideas & Experiences

Countryside Getaways: Visitors to Kyoto are lucky because the traditional, idyllic Japanese countryside is so close to the edge of the city. In fact, you can get to a number of exquisite rural villages in less than an hour. All the following places are perfect for day trips, and all can be easily reached with public transportation! Pack a lunch, bring your camera, and enjoy the wonders of countryside Japan right here in Kyoto. Kumogahata: The secret village of Kumogahata (Field of Clouds) at the head of the Kamogawa River was used as an exclusive imperial hunting area until the end of the last century. Today, the area is truly an outstanding example of ancient Japanese village life and the great outdoors—only 40 min. from Kyoto by bus!. As the road ends in Kumogahata, it is always peaceful and uncrowded. Highly recommended for a half day of walking. About a 30-min. walk from the last bus stop (Iwayabashi; via bus #37) lies a special temple called Iwaya-fudo (or Shimei-in). The best way to see the area is to take the bus to the end and then walk back through each of the three village areas. The bus will pick you up if you flag it. You’ll know it is coming from the music it plays. Kibune/Kurama: If you are looking for mountain splendor and cool rushing water then the walk from Kibune-guchi Stn. through Kibune village and then over the mountain (cross the mountain no later than 16:00 to avoid getting lost in the dark!) to Kurama is an excellent way to really experience a unique aspect of rural Japan. At the end of your walk, in Kurama, soak away your troubles in an outdoor hot spa (Kurama Onsen). Accessible from Demachiyanagi Stn. on the Eizan line in less than 30 min. Ohara: Besides its famous temples from centuries past, Ohara (bus #17, #18 from Kyoto Stn.) is also a fine example of rural Japanese living. Two areas are recommended for long walks. One is the area stretching parallel to the main road southeast along the upper slopes of the east side of the valley from the Sanzen-in area. The other area is along the narrow road running north along the west side of the valley. Uji: The town of Uji is famous for its temples, relaxing river-side scenery and a wide range of interesting cultural attractions. Uji is also the tea capital of Japan (since the 12th century). A short walk out of town in an easterly direction, and you will see the low, dark-green tea bushes covering the landscape. The first leaves of the year are picked in May. May is one of the best times to visit Uji — to stroll along the river (especially the north side, east of Uji Keihan Station) and take in the magnificence of the azaleas in full bloom, to see the wonders of its temples, to taste the first tea of the year, and to simply relax in a town that has been a tourist mecca for centuries. Uji can be reached via the Keihan Line (change at Chushojima), and JR (from Kyoto Stn.). It’s about 30 minutes from Kyoto. Tourist information (in English): 0774-23-3334.

Shopping Fun: Ideas for May in Japan

Kiyomizuyaki Ceramics: Elegant shapes, graceful design, and pure, intense color – these are the qualities that have drawn generation after generation to Kyoto’s Kiyomizuyaki ceramics. Kiyomizuyaki originated as a combination of different Japanese pottery styles. Suitable combinations of over glaze and gilt, seasonal motifs and unique, highly individual forms were all additions that Kiyomizu potters made over the years to establish the identity of their wares. This type of ceramic became famous throughout Japan because most of the shops were located on the popular pilgrimage route leading up to Kiyomizu Temple. For one of the best selections of Kiyomizuyaki and great service in English, visit Roku Roku Do. Roku Roku Do has been offering fine Kyoto ceramics since 1871. The shop is located near Kiyomizu Temple, Kyoto’s most popular tourist attractions so you are sure to pass by. Roku Roku Do also has a fine authentic tea room where the owner sometimes performs tea ceremony (enquire in advance for details). They also have a small gallery where ceramic exhibitions by famous and up-and-coming artists are regularly held.

Interesting Accessories: If you want something small, unusual and Japanese, Dedegumo is the place. Dedegumo is located in the middle of Gion, world famous for its maiko and geiko, and its exotic old world atmosphere of traditional machiya townhouse-style restaurants and shops. Dedegumo sells original handmade watches (from Yen 10,500) and fine range of jewelry accessories all of which are made handmade by the shop staff. Each piece is carefully made and no two pieces are alike. Many of the things they make are designed with Japanese motifs and themes. Dedegumo is on the south side of Shirakawa Minami, east of Kawabata. Open: 10:00-21:00. The staff speaks some English. Tel: 561-3333.