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Basho’s haiku & Zen master Dogen, a ryokan tale, Ryoanji Zen garden & lady Chiyono.

One of the countless stone Jizo monks to be seen across Kyoto, Japan!

This post covers human stories more than anything else but in those stories are locations that are fully alive and well today. And private travelers are always looking for new places to learn! Japanese gardens from the 12th century. Zen monasteries and the venerated monks who once lived there. The haiku poet of haiku poets, Matsuo Basho. And other outstanding Japanese people. Learn more!

Main topics discussed in this post (and a bit of great trivia below the main topics section!):

A little bit of trivia never hurt anyone! Have you ever heard of Natsume Soseki? Natsume Soseki (1867 - 1916), worked as a junior high school teacher before going to study in England. In London he lived in Sherlock Holmes' house in Baker Street. In the 1980s Baker Street borough council expressed a desire to have a statue of him erected in the neighborhood. This was objected to on the grounds that he always let it be known that he didn't really like the place. When he returned to Japan he became a lecturer at Tokyo University. His most famous novel "I Am a Cat" is written from the point of view of a feline living in the house of a Japanese high school teacher.

And here is something else to ponder. Did you know that Japanese cranes, such a powerful image or sensation, were thought to be extinct until in 1923. It was then that a hunter discovered about a dozen of them living in Kushiro Marsh in eastern Hokkaido. The marsh is the center of Hokkaido’s birding experiences or the boldest big bird experiences and not terribly inaccessible. In Japan, cranes in general are called Tsuru. In 1935, tsuru or cranes were designated a 'Protected Species.' And then an 'Endangered Species' in 1952. Today there are well over 1,000 or even more. They have thrived as the marshes they favor are rather unpopular with human beings!

In olden times, when the cranes were numerous, they were hunted for sport. Commoners were prohibited from hunting them when it became popular with the aristocracy. In the Edo Period (1603 - 1867), Iemitsu, the third of the Tokugawa shoguns, presented the court with a tancho or crane he had caught with a hawk. After that, the presentation became an annual event.

Cranes are a symbol of longevity and along with pine trees, another symbol of long life, are a popular motif in works of art. The call of the crane sounds like a trumpet and, in Japan, the voice of authority is referred to as the voice of the crane. There is also a proverb pertaining to longevity: Tsuru wa sennen, kame wa mannen--The crane lives a thousand years, the turtle ten thousand. In reality, Japanese cranes live about 80 years.

And let’s not forget Japan’s late Buddhism moments. Consider the life of the monk Rennyo Shonin! Rennyo (1415-1498), a devotee to the teachings of Shinran (founder of the Jodo Shinshu, True Pure Land, sect of Buddhism) was responsible for the spectacular rise of the sect during the Muromachi period (1333-1576). As the oldest son of the 7th head of Hongan-ji Temple, Rennyo succeeded to his father's position in 1457. A charismatic figure who believed that Shinran's message should be spread to the common people, Rennyo’s teachings essentially popularized the message of Shinran: that everyone could achieve direct salvation through their faith in the Amida Buddha. Rennyo’s great popularity was due to his powerful personal style, his convincing wisdom, and the fact that he spoke to people in easily understandable every-day speech.

In 1591, 100 years after Rennyo Shonin’s passed away, Hongan-ji Temple, as the head temple of Jodo Shinshu (True Pure Land) sect, was moved to Kyoto from Osaka. The Nishi Hongan-ji study, built in the Heian Shoin-zukuri style, reconstructed from a suite of rooms moved from Fushimi Castle in the 1590s, contains a number of important Kano School (q.v.) sliding screen paintings. The three-story Nishi Hongan-ji Hiun-kaku (Floating Cloud Pavilion), once part of Hideyoshi's magnificent Kyoto Jurakudai Palace was added to the temple in 1630. The famous and richly decorated Nishi Hongan-ji Kara-mon (Chinese) Gate, was originally part of Fushimi Castle. The temple also has several important gardens, and Japan's oldest existing Noh stage. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994.

Matsuo Basho’s haiku genius & Zen master Dogen (1200-1253)

Memorable lives: Matsuo Basho’s haiku

Along a mountain road

Somehow it tugs the heart

A wild violet

Walking on a mountain path from Kyoto’s Yamashina to Otsu (Shiga, along Lake Biwa), the haiku genius Basho (1644-1694) came upon a single wild violet in bloom. The lonely, though brightly blooming flower, made Basho stop his journey. And then, in an instant, he composed the above haiku. It has been interpreted, in modern times, to read:

“Walking on a mountain, unexpectedly, I found a wild piece of velvet, like a charming girl and so many sweet, old memories.”

Nowadays, haiku has become a word in many world languages, and the image of the wandering poet Basho is as well-known as Shakespeare or Robert Frost. The Japanese edition of Newsweek publishes a haiku of Basho’s in every issue.

According to the writings and teachings of Basho, a complete haiku poem must combine three essential qualities: wabi (taste for the simple and quiet); sabi (patina or the quality of the antique); and karumi (a specific memory or image intimately connected with a certain place or event). When these three kinds feelings or ideas are found within the 5-7-5, three-line simplicity of a haiku, only then is it a true haiku. Here are two perfect examples by the old master himself.

The old pond

A frog jumps in

The sound of water.

Silence

Seeping into the rocks

Cicadas’ screech

On your present or next trip to Japan try to compact the instances of your amazement and aesthetic pleasure into your own haiku memory.

Memorable lives: Zen monk Dogen (1200-1253)

The monk Dogen (probably Japan’s most famous Zen monk) went to China to seek for life’s truths when he was 23 years old. He started ascetic training at China’s prestigious Tendozan monastery soon after arriving.

One hot summer day, after he finished his lunch and was walking along the long corridor, an old monk who was working in the stone garden caught his eye. The hatless old monk was drying mushrooms out in the garden by raking them with his cane under the sultry sun. Monk Dogen asked with his sympathy, “ Sir, Tenzo (the head monk who is in charge of cooking) why don’t you entrust the duty to younger monk who is under training instead of doing it yourself who is such a honorable monk?” The old monk responded offhandedly, “Nobody can do the things that I must do in life.” Dogen understand this but still wanted to ask more, so he said, “Even so, why don’t you work on cooler day instead of on such a hot day.” The old monk answered, “When can I do it if I don’t do it now!!” This reply led Dogen instantly to the gates of enlightenment. Life is always “now”. If I don’t live “the momenst of life”, nothing would ever be done. At that moment Dogen was enlightened.

An anonymous ryokan worker tells her tale

Learning through our good & bad experiences

I work at a traditional Japanese inn or ryokan in Kyoto. I am young and, to be honest, don’t know as much about Japanese culture as some of the foreign guests I have met do.

One day, after finishing my morning routine, I went down to the dining room to turn on the lights for breakfast. The dining room has huge floor to ceiling windows facing south overlooking a fairly large garden. A little later, when I returned to the room the lights were off again. I thought it was strange, and turned them on again. After a while, when I walked by, I saw that the lights were off again. I was then that I saw a foreign guest sitting at a table by the garden. He seemed to be meditating on the garden scene. He saw me then, smiled at me, then he turned back to the garden.

To tell the truth, I didn't really like this man very much. To me he was one of those snobby guests who seemed to be critical of everything I did for him. To be honest, he had been getting on my new-generation (shinjinrui) Japanese nerves for a couple of days. Now, at least, he was at least friendly to me.

Just to see what would happen, I said, I guess you like the room dark. He answered quietly, It is not dark. It is naturally lit. And with the lights off you can feel the light moving across the room.

I now realize, more than ever, what a wonderful feeling it is to sit in a traditional Japanese room and absorb the subtleties of the colors of the natural materials, the shades of the light, the simplicity.

Anonymous ryokan employee; circa 1988.

Ryoan-ji Temple’s Zen Garden

For the first-time tourist, no trip to Kyoto is complete without a visit to Ryoan-ji Temple’s famous Zen dry landscape (karesansui) garden. This garden, and others like it, are known throughout the world.

Sitting on the time-worn wooden, slightly raised verandah of Ryoan-ji, the visitor at first is speechless. One simply sits silently and admires the perfection of the garden.

It is an elemental, undecorated space: 15 black stones of different sizes and shapes, sitting on moss pads, all oddly arranged on a raked bed of off-white gravel. There are no trees, no bushes: just the time-stained earthen wall surrounding the garden.

The Japanese writer, Minakami Tsutomo wrote: ‘ I can’t not figure out the meaning of the garden.’ But understanding the garden may not be important. Contemplating it, in silence, for as long as possible, is what really matters.

However, Ryoan-ji is more than just its garden. There is also the big pond out front: a wonderful and calming place to contemplate human existence and the wonders of nature.

The Ryoan-ji pond blooms brightly with lotus flowers in summer. The flower springs forth out of the muddy bottom of the pond. Its short-lived blossoms suggest reincarnation; the shiny, green, wheel-like leaves and spike-shaped petals imply the perpetual cycle of existence; and the pure flowers rising from the mud symbolize enlightenment. Even after blooming, the lotus is beautiful.

In autumn, the pond is home to the lush and flowing hagi bush, which seems to gush dark green leaves and tiny, pale red flowers all over the path. Looking up, you will see the distant, wispy clouds of autumn crossing the bright blue sky.

Ryoan-ji is also home to an excellent traditional buckwheat (soba) noodle restaurant. Soba is more popular among Kanto (Tokyo) area people; udon (thick, white wheat noodles) is preferred in the Kansai (Kyoto, Osaka) area. But here at Ryoan-ji Temple, the soba is delicious.

In fact, everything about Ryoan-ji is special. Be sure to visit and spend some time in the area.

Did you know that George Lucas paid homage to the Ryoanji gardens? Few people understand that Star Wars was founded on medieval Japanese stories and especially the ones by Akira Kurosawa. In historical terms Darth Vader is the shogun of Edo Castle, the Tokugawa shogun (1603-1867). And the good guys are the super brave and amazing forces based in southwest Shikoku Island and a large portion of southern Kyushu island. They wanted to restore the Japanese emperor to political power (instead of just a puppet for shoguns . . .) and they did. They overthrew the Tokugawa’s empire and most of that drama happened on the back lanes of Kyoto! So when you think Stars Wars imagine Hans Solo gun slinging it in the Fushimi sake district or on the lanes west of the Gion geisha district . . .

Historical Women of Kyoto: Chiyono

Once upon a time, in Kyoto, there was an exceptionally beautiful woman named, Chiyono. When she was young, the crown prince and many aristocrats wanted to marry her. They all proposed to her. She refused every proposal.

One day, she decided to become a Buddhist nun and implored a temple to accept her. All the monks at the temple agreed that this was not a good idea. They told her, “Your determination is great, but we have hundreds of monks here. We are afraid your beauty might drive them crazy.”

Chiyono then did the unthinkable. She burned her face so badly that is was difficult to tell if she was a man or a woman. The temple accepted her the next time she asked.

She trained hard, with great dedication, and 30 or 40 years passed. Then, one full moon night, while she was carrying a wooden bucket full of water, she saw her face reflected in the water. Suddenly, the bamboo hoop holding the bucket together came off and her reflection disappeared. At that moment, she became enlightened.

Tea & tea ceremony: more than you know!

Tea came to Japan in 1191 in the luggage of the famous Japanese Zen priest Eisai (1141-1215), after a long stay in Sung dynasty China. His precious seeds were planted in Uji (see above), in long, low rolling rows, and became the source for all Japanese tea plants. Green tea became immediately popular with Japanese priest and nobles. From the middle of the 17th century, Uji annually sent its tea to the Shogun in Edo. However, due to the labor intensive nature of making tea, it remained a luxury until the end of the Edo or early Meiji period (1868-1912).

The Japanese discovered that shading the tea leaves slows transpiration, thereby producing a sweeter tea. To create highly prized teas, such as gyokuro and tencha (the source for superfine tea ceremony matcha), the bushes must be carefully shielded from the sun. In the old days, shade was created by constructing a reed roof over the bushes starting around the 10th of April. After ten days, the reeds were covered with straw. To intensify the shade, the sides were enclosed as well, blocking out almost all of the light. Then the bushes were left like this for another ten days. Nowadays, a spaced, double layer of black nylon mesh is used instead of the reed roof.

Green tea is good for you. It is said to slow human ageing, the outbreak of cavities, lessen the effects of hangovers, prevent colds, and have a cosmetic effect on skin, etc. Specifically, the chlorophyll in tea improves blood and skin quality. Green tea also contains significant amounts of vitamin B and C. Because it is alkaline, it also has a good effect on the stomach. Recently, studies have also shown that green tea can prevent certain kinds of cancer. So drinking a little Japanese tea everyday is something worth thinking about.

Introduced to Japan in the elaborate style of the Chinese court in the 12th century, tea ceremony was a wildly popular, yet sophisticated way to display one’s wealth, and an elaborate entertainment that combined stylish ceremony with minimal sincerity.

In the Muromachi period (1333-1576), through the powerful patronage of the Ashikaga shoguns, Zen Buddhism and the samurai military class, tea ceremony developed in a radical, distinctly Japanese direction. Through the simplicity stressed in Zen, the tea ceremony increasingly emphasized elemental things and styles. Sen Rikyu (1522-1591) unified and perfectly refined these trends and created the modern Japanese tea ceremony. Rikyu was a pioneer and genius for recognizing the beauty in the natural materials native to Japan, many of which were part of the very fabric of Japanese life — earthen walls, tatami, bamboo. He left behind a ceremonial tradition that was refined, yet simple, a ritual of perfection that incorporates the entire body of Japanese aesthetics, a ceremony that is based on sincerity and reaches out in its dignified stillness to calm and pacify the heart and mind.

The essence of Rikyu's philosophy is expressed clearly in his 7 tenets: 1) Flowers should evoke the naturalness of the fields. 2) The charcoal should be placed such that the water boils. 3) There should be a feeling of coolness in summer. 4) And a feeling of warmth in winter. 5) Everything should be ready in advance. 6) Prepare for rain, just in case. 7) Consider harmony in the choice of your guests.

Rikyu's legacy lives on today in the three tea schools founded by his great grandsons more than 300 years ago — Omote Senke (the front house), Mushakoji Senke (the middle house), and Urasenke. Today, with millions of students, these three schools continue to play a vital role in preserving traditional Japanese culture.

When you take part in a tea ceremony, first bow (while seated) and then lift the chawan (tea bowl) your right hand, and place it on the palm of your left hand. Second, rotate the chawan clockwise 180 degrees with the right hand in three separate movements. Then, after a short pause, drink the tea in two or three stages, while admiring the bowl and deeply sensing ritual and the moment. Third, after drinking the tea, wipe the part of the chawan you touched with your lips with your right hand and rotate the chawan counterclockwise 180 degrees, and return it to the host, or place it on the floor before you. If you are served a sweet during the tea ceremony, it will always be before you are served the tea. When in doubt, observe those around you, or behave as calmly and dignified as you can and do what comes natural to you. In the end, there are no fixed rules in the tea ceremony.