Save time & have a better time anywhere in Japan (since 1990) with my expert private custom Japan tours & travel services. Learn more! WhatsApp: +1-415-230-0579. Email me today!

Feudal Kameoka, Sennyuji to Tofukuji walk, Fushimi river town

Stone Buddhist jizo holding a symbolic peach.

This post covers the low-key castle town of Kameoka (just west of Kyoto), the history-rich trail from the heights of Sennyuji Temple to Tofukuji Temple (SE Kyoto), and the historical Fushimi sake & water-trade district (gunslingers fought here in the 1860s). But first a little aside on history and where to find it . . .

Historical walking is really any strolling you do anywhere you go. At home when walking you past through the 1910s (Victorian) and then hoods from the 1950s and usually a fair bit of modern and contemporary ugly. Such is historical walking in cities in North America. Kyoto and numerous other cities in Japan are not so different. But as a foreigner you don't really know the back lanes like a local. For example, take the Silver Pavilion or Ginkakuji Temple.

Most tourists walk up the shopping street leading to the front gate of the Silver Pavilion and return to the upper end of the Path of Philosophy the same way. And these tourists are missing out on one of Kyoto's best kept secrets. When you come to the front gate of Ginkakuji you can go northeast (around the corner) and climb to a killer lookout called Daimonji (or big kanji ideogram; Kyoto University students altered the big ideogram one Obon fire-send-off August and changed it to the character for dog!). And if you take the lane directly south from the temple gate you enter a canyon of old and ancient delights.

Any time of day the narrow road south from the gate of Ginkaku-ji Temple will lead you to the elevated world of Honen-in Temple, less than 250 meters south of Ginkakuji. Here you will find a large bamboo grove. Here you will find the edge of Kyoto's eastern forests with confident birds singing sweetly in the temple precinct. And hear you will also experience long, silent moments.

If one walks this same path every day, one will discover the fresh new breath of the changing seasons. New flowers will open your heart and mind. In early spring, plum and peach flowers bloom here, followed by cherry blossoms in mid spring. In the first days of May: the wonder of the fresh green of a new generation of young leaves.

The monks at Honen-in Temple teach about nature and living in harmony with the natural world. The temple also opens its doors to art exhibitions and music concerts by artists from around the world. Nearby, you will find Anraku-ji Temple and Ryokan-ji Temple. Like Honen Temple, both of these temples are quiet and peaceful too. And every day at four in the afternoon the bell at Honen-in rings out over the neighborhood. And this sound too, should you hear it, has a soothing effect on the soul.

The back lanes off the Path of Philosophy are also increasingly trafficked, again, by colorful, shiny new rickshaws, pulled by strong, tanned young men. Walking along the less-traveled paths of Kyoto quiets the heart and mind. Enjoy your historical strolls across Japan and always follow the path less traveled if you are looking for the real Japan!

Content by Ian Martin Ropke, owner of Your Japan Private Tours (est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with Japan private tour clients and have worked for all kinds of families, companies, and individuals since 1990. Clients find me mostly via organic search, and I advertise my custom Japan private tours & travel services on www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps in Japan! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip. And thank you for reading my content. I, Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search), am also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!

Kameoka castle town, 40 min. west of Kyoto

Kameoka City, with a current population of roughly 87,000 (it was 100,000 just 25 years ago!), is located about 20 kilometers west of Kyoto. Like many smaller cities in Japan, Kameoka has largely managed to preserve its special sense of heritage. Many temples and shrines from Kameoka’s long history remain in excellent condition in their beautiful and natural surroundings, attracting many visitors throughout the year but few foreigners.

Since early times, Kameoka has served as an important gateway to the area known as Kuchi Tamba. When the capital of Japan moved to Kyoto in 794, Kameoka prospered as a key transport hub for lumber shipments, as well as serving as a vital link between Kyoto and Osaka, and the Sanin region (Yamaguchi, Shimane and Tottori Prefectures). During the Tensho era (1573-1586), Akechi Mitsuhide (1526-1582) made Kameoka his base and built Kameyama Castle, laying the foundation for much of the old city that remains today.

Akemichi was the top lieutenant for warlord Oda Nobunaga. And in one of Japan’s most bizarre military reversals, he attacked Nobunaga at Honno-ji Temple (across from Kyoto City Hall) with 30,000 men. Vastly outnumbered, and suffering from a serious sword wound, Nobunaga set the temple on fire and committed suicide. Declaring himself the new ruler of Japan, Akechi began to set himself up in grand style in Kyoto. He died 13 days later, fleeing the wrath of Nobunaga’s powerful lieutenant Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who went on to found Osaka Castle and invade Korea twice! But Kameoka remained an important gateway to the imperial capital, Kyoto. Starting in 1748, for 120 years, Kameoka was ruled over by the Matsudaira family. Kameyama Castle was dismantled in 1878 as part of the Meiji modernization.

Some of Japan’s greatest philosophers and artists came from Kameoka. Among them Maruyama Okyo and Ishida Baigan are particularly well known. Maruyama Okyo fused Eastern art traditions and is particularly well-known for his sliding door and folding screen paintings. The group of sliding door paintings at Kongo-ji Temple in Kameoka are outstanding examples of his work. Ishida Baigan is considered the father of Japanese moral philosophy, which greatly affected Japanese culture. Ishida strove for living study, mixing various scholastic genres, and placed frugality as the basis of his ethics.

The most scenic way to get to Kameoka is on the romantic, open-air Torokko train (open air). The Torokko departs at 27 minutes past the hour from Torokko Saga and Arashiyama stations, between 9:00 and 16:00 (last train around 16:30). The train wends along the Hozugawa through numerous cool tunnels, offering excellent views of the river and the surrounding mountains.

The hozugawa kudari, the Japanese name for the fun boat trip down the Hozugawa River from Kameoka to Arashiyama (where the Instagram-viral bamboo forest is), is one of the more unusual and exciting experiences you can have in Kyoto. It takes about two hours for the 16 km. trip along a semi mountainous river 'canyon.' The channel of this river was opened by Suminokura Ryoi 400 years ago to transport wood and rice from Kameoka to Kyoto. In 1895, pleasure boats began making the trip. Today, over 30,000 tourists travel down Hozugawa River each year. Each boat seats about 15 people and is equipped with a roof should it rain. Boats depart about 2 km from Kameoka Stn. at 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00.

Nonbiri Castletown Historical Walk: This relaxing historical walk will take you through the old heart of Kameoka. On the way you will pass the remains of Kameyama Castle, currently home to the Omoto religious and cultural organization. The walk also leads to a number of superbly preserved temples and shrines. Kuwayama Jinja Shrine is home to the deity of the Tamba region. Shorin-ji Temple is famous for a1-meter-high statue of Bishamon Tenritsu. At Kochu-ji, the Matsudaira clan temple, which is well known for its peonies in early summer, you can feel the ages of Japan’s past. Another interesting site on the walk is Tanaka Gentaro’s house. Founder of the Torokko train line, his beautiful, former home now functions as a Japanese inn and restaurant.

Other Recommended Sights

Anao Temple: Only one of 21 temples in Western Japan authorized to issue amulets in the name of the Bodhisattva Kannon, this temple is particularly beneficial for people seeking to improve their health. The wooden Gautama Buddha statue at the temple is famous; if you touch the part of statue’s body where you have pain, your pain will suddenly disappear.

Kameoka Athletic Park: This spacious park has a huge leisure pool, a track field area, tennis courts, a gymnasium and a baseball field. The leisure pool is nearly 200 meters long and has a 100-meter water slide. You can get to the park (in 10 min.) on a free shuttle bus from Kameoka JR Stn.

Kameoka Sake Factory Area: This area, located a short distance northeast of central Kameoka, is home to many sake factories. One or two offer guided tours or have tiny museums with English signage and all sell high quality sake rice wine.

Kameoka International Exchange Memorial Park and Center: This huge area of greenery and open space is made up of several zones connected with Kameoka’s sister cities. The Kameoka International Center has an excellent library and many other fun facilities.

Yuno Hana Hot Springs: It is said that about 400 years ago a samurai with a serious sword wound came to these hot springs to rest and was quickly healed. Today, the Yuno Hana springs have a reputation for healing neuroses, rheumatism, skin diseases, and stomach aches.

Kameoka traditional crafts & special foods

Bishamon bamboo work: Using local bamboo, artisans produce baskets, flower vases, and cake holders, and many other things.

Kameoka pottery: Currently many young potters from Kyoto have settled in Kameoka to find new outlets for their creative energies.

Soy sauce: Made by hand, Kameoka’s famous soy sauce can be found in supermarkets and specialty shops throughout Japan.

Tamba sake: The delicious water and rice grown in this area produces some of the best tasting rice wine in the Kansai area.

Tamba matsutake mushrooms: These mushrooms are famous for their delicious aroma and flavor.

Tamba kuri chestnuts: These renowned chestnuts are not only delicious roasted but are also used in Japanese cakes and candies.

Sennyuji to Tofukuji walk for history lovers!

Sennyu-ji and Tofuku-ji, a short jump SE of Kyoto Station, are two of Kyoto's largest temple complexes and the "territory" between them is dense with history stretching back over 800 years. Although similar in size and impact, they feel quite different. Sennyu-ji embodies yin (the dark, feminine, still principle). And Tofuku-ji is all yang (the bright, male, active element)!

Sennyu-ji was mainly a reliquary of deceased emperor ashes, thus its isolated, distant feeling. The dignified impact is almost visceral and in the shawdows one senses the vapors of imperial ancestral spirits from centuries past. The temple was founded in 1218 by monk Shunjo, and serves as a key power center in the Shingon sect of Buddhism (the main main headquarters of Shingon is Koyasan). Shunjo studied in China for roughly twelve years, and upon his return, he wrote an important founding document outlining the rules governing monastic life. For this, he garnered great respect from the Emperor and court. This document, Kan'en No So, a National Treasure, is carefully preserved in the temple.

As you approach the temple grounds, the first gate appears; it is called the So-mon. Just before the So-mon gate, on the left, is the sub-temple of Sokujo-in.

The wide drive that leads to the Main Gate, or Dai-mon, of Sennyu-ji is lined with tall, stately trees. Beyond it, all living "trespassers" find a world apart from the hustle and bustle of the streets, only a fifteen-minute walk away. Located at the base of Mt. Tsukinowa, the complex covers fifty-seven acres. You can easily spend an hour or two strolling around the beautifully maintained grounds.

Immediately to the left of the Dai-mon is a tiny Kannon (Goddess of Mercy temple) dedicated to the famous Chinese consort Yang Kuei-fei, a woman known for her beauty, and, falsely, for compassion.

Up the rough hewn stairs to the right lies the subtemple of Unryu-in, which houses a Yakushi Buddha, a moss garden, and ancient pines.

In the center of the gravel paved courtyard is the Main Hall, or Butsuden, a massive Chinese-style building that is home to three seated images. To the right of the divine trio are large trays of candles and incense. And you can buy life-sized, metal, walnut-shaped objects, reputedly good for stimulating the pressure points of the hand.

A bit further in and to the right of the Main Hall, is the Reimei-den, or the Hall of Souls. The Reimei-den's vast roof is made of cedar bark. It is not open to the public, because this is where the 130 memorial tablets dedicated to emperors (from the 38th emperor, Tenji, onward), imperial consorts, princes, and princesses.

Even further back you will discover the Kaie-do and Goza-sho Halls. The Goza-sho has many delicate ink-wash paintings that are impressive.

A wide, almost perfectly landscaped road to the south of this building leads back to several impressive Imperial tombs, Down below the open courtyard is an arched stone bridge that leads across a ravine to the little Raigo-in sub-temple. In the back many little happy gods are stacked on the stone arch of a former torii gate (Shinto). And you can also find a bright orange bridge that leads to the temple of Imakumano Kannon-ji, the fifteenth stop on the thirty-three Kannon Goddess of Mercy pilgrimage. To the right of the temple is a tiny hall, in front of which are numerous plaster statues of seated old men and women. These figures represent prayers against senility, the new affliction of Japan's aging population which went from 133 million in 2014 o about 121 million in 2024.

As you are exiting the entire complex along the main drive, downhill now, you will see a small plain sub-temple, Kaiko-ji. The Main Hall on the right is home to one of the most famous wooden Buddha statues in the entire complex. Dating from the Kamakura period [1185-1333], this ten-meter-tall image of Shaka Nyorai was decorated with Kamakura lacquer, faint traces of which are still visible. From the graceful folds of the robe, the exquisite hands, to the delicate scrolling cloud design that forms the background, this image perfectly embodies the divine aura I associate with one of the world's great religions.

Near the Hiden-in sub-temple, near the junior high school sports ground, a sign points in the direction of the Tofuku-ji Zen temple complex. But you can get lost in the back lanes. If you want to reach Tofuku-ji fast and sure return to Higashi-oji, and turn left at the first traffic light south of the Red Cross Hospital, and follow the road back to the temple wall, and then left.

The main path zigzags around to a map located in front of a parking lot. To the right of this signboard, the straight wall-enclosed path leads to a covered bridge that lies over a famous maple-filled ravine that cuts right through the entire complex. From the bridge, a massive, tiled roof is visible beyond the wooded slopes: the roof of the Superior's Quarters, or Hojo.

Tofuku-ji is a famous Zen complex and they make money from their gardens from sightseeing visitors, but the temple ground is also for locals cutting through en route to the shopping street below. One of the largest Rinzai Zen Sect precincts in the city, TOfukuji contains many sub-temples, two of which are world famous for their "contemporary" Zen gardens.

The four Hojo gardens were redesigned in 1938. The result was close to perfect. The east garden makes use of old foundation pillars. The south garden is powerful and rocks or boulders say "strong." Around the corner to the right lies the west garden, a design of white gravel checkered with square, sculpted azalea bushes. The checkerboard design continues around to the north garden and contrasts beautifully with the wooded slopes.

As you exit the Hojo, there is another covered bridge to your right. The admission fee is for entrance to the temple of Kaisan-do, and the bridge is its approach. Opposite is a lush, green hill of azaleas bushes and large rocks around a pond. There is a return path that leads down and across the stream, offering another opportunity to see the graceful bridge, Tsuten-kyo. If you have the time, take the time to enter these off-the-beaten-track worlds of ancient vibes and old ways . . .

Fushimi: Sake, warlords, commerce & gunfights!

The southern part of Kyoto is often neglected by visitors to Kyoto, yet this ancient and lively area steeped in history has much to offer: narrow lanes, old canals, sake breweries, and the forested environs of Fushimi Inari Shrine. Below are a few of the many spots in Fushimi well worth a visit.

Choken-ji Temple: Lively Choken-ji is the home of Benzaiten, the only female among Japan's Seven Gods of Good Fortune and a descendant of the Hindu deity Sarasvati. Believers in Benzaiten wear a special talisman, or omamori, next to their skin to ensure good fortune. Why don’t your try one too?

Fushimi Inari Shrine: With its thousands of bright orange torii gates snaking through its vast grounds, Fushimi Inari Grand Shrine is one of Kyoto’s secret gems. Day or night, you are free to stroll its walking paths and bamboo groves and bask in the mysterious atmosphere. Dedicated to the Fox Deity: the Inari: this shrine is always worth a visit.

Fushimi Momoyama Castle Area: Though the current castle is a modern reconstruction, it’s still breathtaking... from a distance anyway. It also has an interesting variety of artefacts from the 16th century. Take time also to explore the Gosho Imperial Tombs, including that of the Emperor Meiji, in behind the castle. Fushimi Momoyama Castle is open daily 9:00-17:00.

Goko-no-miya Shrine: A gathering place for people of all ages, Goko-no-miya Shrine has been famous for its exceptional water for centuries. Even today, its water is ranked in the top 100 in Japan, and people from all over come just to fill containers to take home. Feel free to fill up yourself.

Okura Memorial Musuem (Gekkeikan): Operated by Gekkeikan, one of the oldest sake makers in Fushimi and the largest in Japan, this museum covers all aspects of the sake-making process with life-size models and many interesting displays. An English pamphlet is available. Open 9:30-16:30, closed Mondays. Admission ¥300. Tel: 623-2056.

Sekiho-ji Buddha Garden: If you find yourself yearning for the lighter side of Buddhism, then Sekiho-ji Buddha Garden is sure to please. During the latter half of the 18th century, the artist Ito Jakuchu carved some 500 stone statues of Arhats, beings who have attained Nirvana. Scattered about a large bamboo garden, these statues offer a touching vision bliss and happiness. Open daily 10:00-18:00. Tel: 641-0792. Just east of Fukakusa Stn.

Teradaya Inn: Sword marks in the wooden beams of this well-preserved and historical inn are silent reminders of a failed attack in 1866 on Sakamoto Ryoma, a famous imperial loyalist. Entry is ¥300. For about ¥6,000 you can stay the night (including breakfast). Teradaya Inn is the perfect base for exploring southern Kyoto. Open daily from 10:00-16:00. Tel: 622-0243.

Tofuku-ji: Tofuku-ji sits on the lower slopes of the wooded hills on the east side of Kyoto. From the interior of the compound the sky looks endless. Several of the temple’s gardens are powerfully abstract: the work of Mirei Shigemori, Japan's greatest landscape designer of the last hundred year. Open daily 9:00-16:00. Admission ¥300.

Content by Ian Martin Ropke, owner of Your Japan Private Tours (est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with Japan private tour clients and have worked for all kinds of families, companies, and individuals since 1990. Clients find me mostly via organic search, and I advertise my custom Japan private tours & travel services on www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps in Japan! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip. And thank you for reading my content. I, Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search), am also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!