New teamlab, Kawai Kanjiro, J pickles, Kyoto craft shops

The new teamlab installation on ancient rice terraces north of Tokyo.

This post covers a few topics and they are all great ideas for custom Japan private tour experiences. First, we learn about teamlab's latest installation on ancient rice terraces north of Tokyo. Then we go to Kawai Kanjiro's house and ceramic studio. The last part of this post is about Japanese tsukemono pickles and excellent craft shopping & craft experiences in Kyoto.

The latest teamLab installation is called "Hidden Traces of Rice Terraces." The site is connected with the modern Japanese scholar and art critic Okakura Tenshin, who lived his later years way up the coast from busy Tokyo. Near his countryside villa was a coastal mountain that was difficult to penetrate because it was so wild and steep. One valley extended down to the sea bringing so much water that coastal rice terraces were made to take advantage of superb conditions. The terraces were remote too and thus a secret of sorts. Now that secret is a ghostly landscape of rice magic and light, teamlab light. Their idea is that non-material digital technology can transform nature into art without harming it. The lighting display on these rice terraces turns an entire hillside, facing the sea, into a luminescent landscape of old and new. To get there you take a bullet train from Ueno Station (NE Tokyo key zone) to Otsuko Station. From Otsuko Station the teamlab site, in the Izura hot spring town is a short cab ride away. The total trip from Ueno to the terraces is about 90 minutes. Obviously, sleeping over in the area is the smartest move of all.

Now let's go to old Kyoto and the Kawai Kanjiro Museum. This fantastic museum was originally the longtime residence, workplace, and studio of the ceramic artist Kawai Kanjiro (1890-1966), who, together with Bernard Leach (a world famous British ceramics artist) and many others, helped to save the fast disappearing traditional folkcrafts of Japan in the 1920s. The Mingei Japanese Folk Craft Movement was founded in the late 1920s by philosopher and critic Soetsu Yanagi. The movement esteemed beauty in everyday ordinary and utilitarian objects created by nameless and unknown craftsmen. And the movement focused on crafts at the moment factories started turning out early Bakelite plastic objects and industrialization changed daily life. I studied traditional Japanese woodwork and joinery with the elderly son of one of the Mingei folkcraft founder, Tatsuaki Kuroda.

The Kawai Kanjiro Museum would be interesting to anyone who likes wood, ceramics, or old Japan. It was built in 1937 according to Kanjiro’s own design. He also created much of the furniture. The extensive house includes an old rising kiln (noborigama), his studio workshop, a garden area, and small collection of his works. The interior of the house has been preserved the way he left it and offers a fascinating and detailed insight into Kanjiro’s life and work. In his words, “life is work, work is life” and this house proves this point perfectly. The interior of the house has been preserved the way he left it and offers a fascinating and detailed insight into Kanjiro’s life and work. In his words, “life is work, work is life” and this house proves this point perfectly. Open daily 10:00-19:00. Located a tiny bit south-west of the intersection of Gojo and Higashioji. Closed Mondays, except for national holidays when the museum is closed Tuesday). Admission: ¥700 for adults, ¥300 for children. Tel: 561-3585.

The rest of this post covers:

A Japanese tsukemono pickle primer
Kyoto craft shopping & craft experiences

Content by Ian Martin Ropke, owner of Your Japan Private Tours (est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with Japan private tour clients and have worked for all kinds of families, companies, and individuals since 1990. Clients find me mostly via organic search, and I advertise my custom Japan private tours & travel services on www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps in Japan! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip. And thank you for reading my content. I, Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search), am also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!

Japan's tsukemono pickle industry

Pickles anywhere in the world, whether chutney in India, dried plums in China or European dill pickles, are all about health, specifically digestive health. Sour though they may seem, pickles are actually alkaline not acidic. They help your digestive system to be balanced: too acidic and you will get ulcers. This is the practical side of tsukemono. The other side, the more interesting side, is all about taste, color and all the variety that comes from both. November 07 is the first day of winter according to the old Japanese calendar, and this is the time to start making pickles known as "senmaizuke." Senmaizuke pickle production surges around this time of year as the turnips get sweeter.

Pickling means to preserve in vinegar. However, in Japan tsukemono are most often pickled using salt. Too much salt, as many know, is the biggest short coming of the Japanese diet. During the pickling process, various things are often added for flavor, among them yuzu (a kind of citrus), fresh ginger, kombu (kelp), kinome (young leaves of the prickly ash), sansho (the mature fruit of the aforementioned tree), and shiso (beefsteak plant leaves). Cayenne pepper and mustard are sometimes added for zing, and persimmon skins for sweetness. An herb called perilla is sometimes used to impart a mint-like freshness.

Japanese pickles are made with a wide range of vegetables and every area has its specialty and unique style. Kyoto is famous for several varieties of pickles, including a year-round favorite called shiba-zuke. Pickle making and pickle business are especially in narrow valleys where it is hard to grow rice. Kurama and Ohara at the northern edge of Kyoto are both well known for their pickles.

For a first hand look and pickle tasting experience try these places: 1) the basement of Takashimaya Department Store. 2) Kyo-tsukemono Nishiri (it received the Prime Minister’s prize in 1976 for its thinly sliced Kyoto turnip pickles); inside of the Seiryuen complex; just below Kiyomizu Temple. 3) Kintame (on the west side of Senbon, about one block north of Imadegawa), an old Kyoto pickle business has an ocha-zuke restaurant in back; reservations necessary for the restaurant; 11:00-15:00; closed Sundays; Tel: 461-4072. 4) the famous Narita shop, near Kamigamo Shrine.

Kyoto omiyage (gifts) & craft experience locations

As the center of much of Japan’s traditional craft industries, Kyoto is full of exquisite gift buying and craft experience opportunities. Ask your hotel concierge or guide to help you getting to the shops, studios, etc. listed here, as many of the places listed here DO NOT have English-speaking staff, AND most shops have their own opening hours. A fair number of these businesses have onsite experiences where you can actually do something or make something, OK? ALSO BE SURE to check out the fabulous exhibits on nearly all of Kyoto traditional craft industries at the Kyoto Fureaikan Craft Museum, which has a full range of Kyoto's traditional craft works on display. The Museum is located in the Miyako Messe (Kyoto International Exhibition Hall.

Big A-Z gift & craft places in Kyoto:

Kyoto Handicraft Center: an excellent selection of handicrafts and gift items. Oshido:fine Kyoto souvenirs of all kinds, a few meters from Kiyomizu Temple. Kyoto Craft Center: ceramics, lacquerware, prints and textiles, etc.; on the north side of Shijo, just west of Yasaka Shrine; Tel: 561-9660. Kyukyo-do: traditional stationery, incense and tea ceremony utensils; on the west side of Teramachi, one block north of Sanjo; Tel: 231-0510. Kurashiya Mokuzaemon: handcrafted, interesting wood work, pottery, bamboo and paper crafts; a little southeast of Nijo Castle, on Ogawa, south of Oike; 10:00-18:00, closed Wed.; Tel: 211-9924.

Japanese specialty craft shops in Kyoto:

ANTIQUES, WOODBLOCKS, PAINTINGS & SCROLLS—Shinmonzen: This street (and the surrounding area) is the heart of Kyoto’s antique world; excellent window shopping; east of Higashioji. Teramachi: this street (north of Nijo and south of Marutamachi) has a number of excellent, often inexpensive, antique shops. Daishodo: excellent range of woodblock prints. Yamazoe Tenko-do: paintings, scrolls; on Nawate, south of Sanjo; Tel: 561-3064.

BAMBOO & STONE and PAPER LANTERNS—Oike: bamboo everything is on display in this fabulous show room; west side of Aburanokoji, north of Shijo; 8:30-17:30; closed Sun, holidays, and the 2nd Saturday of the month; Tel: 221-3211. Maeda Heihachi Shoten: fine bamboo blinds; on the west side of Teramachi, 150 meters south of Shijo; Tel: 351-2749. Miura Shomei: hand-crafted paper lanterns; on the north side of Shijo, a little west of Higashioji; Tel: 561-2816. Sawakichi: Japanese stone lanterns; at the northwest corner of Gojo/Higashioji; Tel: 561-2802.

CERAMICS—Roku Roku Do: unique Kiyomizu ceramics. Rakushi-en: ceramics from all over Japan; east of Higashioji, south of Gojozaka; Tel: 541-1161. Kotobuki Toshun: Kiyomizu-yaki pottery studio tour; in the Kiyomizuyaki Danchi in Yamashina; Tel: 581-7195. Kyoto Tojiki Kaikan: Kyoto ceramic museum; east of Higashioji, south of Gojozaka; Tel: 541-1102.

COMBS & HAIR ACCESSORIES—Ikuokaya: traditional Japanese hair accessories; on Shijo, 100 meters east Kawabata; Tel: 561-8087. Jusan-ya: handmade combs, hair ornaments; on the north side of Shijo, east of Teramachi; Tel: 211-0498.

INCENSE—Shoyeido: fine incense. Kungyoku-do: fine incense.

LACQUER--Nishimura Kissho-do:: Nishimura Kissho-do was established early this century at its present location on Sanjo about 1 kilometer east of Kawaramachi. Since its founding, it has become one of the most reputable, and reasonably priced lacquer shops in Kyoto. Nishimura Kissho-do’s customers come from all over Japan to buy chopsticks, soup bowls, trays, interior items, and engagement ceremony related gifts. Their quality is guaranteed and the shop motto is "Better quality, Better Service". In addition to its wide selection of Kyoto Lacquer, Nishimura Kissho-do offers a range of lacquerware from throughout Japan. The first time you handle a lacquer bowl or lacquer item you feel a strong attraction. Mr. Nishimura hopes that Kyoto Lacquer, the best lacquer in Japan, will regain a share of the tableware market. Over the years he has noticed an increasing number of foreigners in his shop. Many of them, according to him, knew more about Japanese lacquer that the average Japanese customer. Open daily 9 am - 8 pm. Nishimura Kissho-do has a gallery space upstairs, call Gallery Kissho-do. Various painters, sculptors, or craft artists exhibit their works there. On Sanjo, east of Yanaginobamba. Tel: 221-3955. Uruwashi-ya: used lacquerware at reasonable prices; on the south side of Marutamachi, east of Fuyacho; 11:00-18:30, closed on Tues; Tel: 212-0043. Monju: fine lacquerware; on the south side of Shijo, east of Hanamikoji; Tel: 525-1617.

WASHI PAPER, UMBRELLAS, FANS—Kamiji Kakimoto: washi paper; on the west side of Teramachi, north of Nijo; Tel: 211-3481. Kasagen: handmade umbrellas; on the north side of Shijo, west of Higashioji; Tel: 561-2832. Kyo-sendo: Kyoto folding fan studio tour; on the east side of Higashi-no-toin, north of Shichijo; Tel: 371-4151. Miyawaki Baisen-an: handmade fans; on the north side of Rokkaku, west of Tominokoji; Tel: 221-0181.

SWORDS, KNIVES & TOOLS—Aritsugu: superb cooking knives and other kitchen accessories. Kaiyodo: swords; on the south side of Oike, 200 meters west of Horikawa; Tel: 801-7227. Mitsuhisa: a excellent range of traditional Japanese carpentry tools; one street east of Senbon, about 50 meters south of Sanjo; Tel: 841-2385. Masudai Shoten: all kinds of Japanese tools and carpentry accessories (an amazing hardware store!); on the east side of Senbon, a few meters north of Sanjo; Tel: 821-4309.

TEXTILES & TRADITIONAL CLOTHING—Aizen Kobo: indigo clothing/textiles. Nakamura Chingireten: antique textiles/baskets; on the east side of Nawate, north of Furumonzen; Tel: 561-4726. Kawamura Orimono: Nishijin weaving factory tour; on the east side of Ogawadori, south of Teranouchi; Tel: 451-2671. Kodai Yuzen-en: yuzen silk dyeing demonstrations; on Takatsuji, east of Kuromon ; Tel: 823-0501. Nishijin Textile Center: Nishijin textile center; on the west side of Horikawa, south of Imadegawa; Tel: 451-9231.

JAPANESE PAINTING & CALLIGRAPHY SUPPLIES—Saiun-do: Japanese painting supplies in the center of Kyoto; one block north of Sanjo on Teramachi and turn west or left and you will see Saiun-do on your left half way to the next cross street.

CHOPSTICKS—Ichihara Heibei Shoten: especially beautiful and sophisticated chopsticks for every occasion and situation; Sakaimachi, north of Shijo.

A Japanese tsukemono pickle primer
Kyoto craft shopping & craft experiences