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Hokkaido in winter, hot spas in and near Kyoto, and a ryokan family interview

Hokkaido winter season red king crab at their very best!

This post is straight up useful for planning winter 2024-2025 Japan private tours. Winter in Japan is about Hokkaido and its kapow powder snow, which the Aussies, Kiwis and much of SE Asia can't get enough of. So close and all and hardly any shift in local time. After the Hokkaido winter destination highlights, I introduce the amazing hot spring and hot water bathing options in and around Kyoto. The final section of this post is a December 2001 interview with the young heiress of Kyoto's stunning Yoshida Sanso ryokan complex. Enjoy the read!

Content by Japan travel specialist & designer Ian Martin Ropke, founder & owner of Your Japan Private Tours (YJPT, est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with all of YJPT's Japan private tour clients and have a great team behind me. I promote YJPT through this content and only advertise at www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip to save time & have a better time. Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search) is also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!

Hokkaido: Japan's winter wonderland

As Japan's coldest yukiguni snow land paradise Hokkaido has the best powder or kapow! It's the kapow powder the foreigners come for but Hokkaido in winter offers so much more.

Hokkaido or Hokkaido Island lies at the far northern end of the Japanese archipelago. From Tokyo you can fly to Hokkaido in just over 90 minutes. By bullet train you can get to Japan's vast winter wonderland in about 8 hours. Winter in Hokkaido runs from mid-December to early March. In Sapporo, the capital of Hokkaido, average winter temperatures range from -3°C to -10°C (27-14 F). The nights, obviously, are considerably colder!

Hokkaido is the #1 skiing and snowboarding destination for Australia and Southeast Asia. Hokkaido has it all from helicopter skiing to snowshoeing and snowmobiling. If snowshoeing is your thing you will find great trails and equipment in Sapporo (Odori Park and Shiroi Koibito Park), Niseko, Mount Moiwa, and crater rim walks at Lake Mashu and Lake Shikotsu.

If you just want to soak the nights or days away in a hot tub or bath consider Noboribetsu Onsen, Yunokawa Onsen, Jozankei Onsen, and soaking spots along Lake Toya.

If you love winter illumination extravaganza's don't miss the February Sapporo Snow Festival, which takes place at the same time as the Otaru illumination and snow statue festival.

Otaru is just west of Sapporo and you can get there in just over an hour. This red brick harbor city built its reputation on the fishing industry. It has canals. It has charm. And in winter it becomes an illuminated winter wonderland. It's the most romantic city on the island of Hokkaido in all ways. The Otaru Snow Light Path Festival attracts thousands in February for the lighting and snow statues.

Hokkaido is a big island and getting around can take time. However, most famous ski slopes are not that far from Sapporo. So, think 2 hours to get to the lifts and the powder skiing lifts. In fact, nearly all of Hokkaido's top ski resorts are less than 2 hours from the island's main airports (New Chitose, Asahikawa and Obihiro).

The best resorts offer shuttle bus transportation from key cities and transport hubs. And Hokkaido has a pretty decent rail system. But if you are going to the far eastern edges to see the drift ice do consider flying to save time (by train it takes almost 6 hours from Sapporo Station). If you really want to be free and easy in all ways then renting a car (Toyota Rent A Car is best!) is also a very good idea and not as expensive as you might think.

A note on clothing for those who have forgotten the realities of a winter wonderland. When you are not actively doing winter sports remember to be well layered in Hokkaido in winter. A set or two of well-insulated thermal innerwear and good-quality wool layers covered by a wind-resistant jacket is the best approach. Water-resistant snow pants are also a very good idea, especially for skiing or snowboarding.

Hokkaido's winter foods of note

Hokkaido is famous for food because it has such great seafood and also amazing vegetables and cows and other livestock. The island is Japan's bread basket for wheat, potatoes and lots more. And the dairy industry of Japan's is mostly in Hokkaido, which results in heaps of butter, cheese, and yogurt. Mmmmm!

Kaisendon (seafood rice bowl): Cold water makes for the best seafood and thus Hokkaido's foodie advantages. And that makes a kaisendon seafood rice bowl a super way to get into Hokkaido food in winter. The bowl is topped with fresh salmon, uni sea urchin, ikura salmon roe and crab. The early morning Nijo Market in Sapporo has some of the best value kaisendon you can find. So fresh!

Red king crab: From Jan to May, Hokkaido's red king crab is hoisted from the icy waters of the Sea of Okhotsk. This area is also famous for drift ice. Hokkaido crab dishes are typically boiled and served with minimal seasoning.

Miso ramen: Ramen in Hokkaido is just another world and for good reason. The healthy and warming positives of miso (fermented soy bean paste) ramen makes it a super popular winter choice. Each part of Hokkaido has its own version of miso ramen but the Sapporo version is considered to be "the best." Sapporo miso ramen features a rich, buttery broth and sweet corn.

Ishikari nabe hot pot: Winter is for stew and nabe hot pot cuisine is just amazing stew cuisine. Ishikari nabe hot pot cuisine focuses on lots of salmon and vegetables, and more miso broth. And butter is also part of the mix.

Hokkaido soup curry hot pot: Hokkaido soup curry is another winter stew and the curry base is not so thick. In Sapporo and elsewhere these curry stews are super popular with kids and adults of all ages. Big chunks of eggplant and pumpkin mixed with meats are served with rice. And vegetarian and vegan versions are easy to find!

Kyoto's hot springs & spas are awesome!

Taking a hot bath is a time honored Japanese tradition. Whether at home, at the sento, or in a hot spa, the Japanese love to soak away the hours. And no trip to Japan would be complete without experiencing the pleasures and benefits of the traditional Japanese hot spa or onsen. What could be more pleasurable than staying a night (or two) in a Kyoto ryokan that offers both good food and hot spa bathing? If staying the night is out of your price range, no worries: just soaking is also ok at many places. Looking for a luxurious way to spend the end or start of the year? Then look no further.

Note, as far as etiquette goes, remember to behave respectfully, and most importantly WASH BEFORE SOAKING!! If in doubt, do like the Japanese around you. Enjoy!

In-town Spas: Kitashirakawa Natural Radium Onsen: Located on the scenic driveway to Mt. Hiei, the natural radium hot spring of this spa is ranked as No. 1 in Kansai. Tel: 781-4525. Funaoka Onsen: This onsen, the oldest one in the city, dates from the late Edo period. It has a number of exquisite ranma (panels of Japanese wood carving) which partition the change rooms. Open 15:00-1:00. On Kitaoji west of Daitoku-ji Temple. Tel: 441-3735. Kurama Onsen Spa: This outdoor spa, set on a forested, mountain slope at the north end of the narrow Kurama valley, is only 30-minutes by train from Kyoto. Open 9:00-21:00, closed Mondays. Tel: 741-2131. Yase Kamaburo Eirokukan: This ryokan in Yase, at the foot of Mt. Hiei, has a fabulous kamaburo sauna, beautiful views, and excellent cuisine. A 5-min walk southeast of Eizan Yase Stn. Tel: 781-5126. Nizaemon No Yu Onsen: This spa is probably Kyoto’s newest and most luxurious. This place has everything: outdoor pools; masseurs; skin treatment specialists; restaurants; etc. On Route #9 (or Gojo Street; towards Kameoka), on the west side of town a little southwest of Hankyu Katsura Stn. (8 min. by taxi). Tel: 393-4500.

Out-of-town Spas: Ayabe Onsen: The old castle town of Ayabe, about two hours northwest of Kyoto City by train (or car), once a major producer of raw silk, is the home of Kurodani washi paper. Ayabe‘s hot waters are said to be good for neuralgia, fatigue, burns and bruises, due largely to the water’s high sulphur content. Tel: (0773) 55-0888. To get there: Take the JR Sanin line to Ayabe Stn. The onsen is a 40-min bus-ride from the station. Yu-no-hana Onsen Area (Kameoka City): Like many smaller, rural Japanese cities, nearby Kameoka has largely managed to preserve its special sense of heritage. The 12 ryokan inns of the Yu-no-hana onsen area, about 7 km west of the city, have a reputation for healing neuroses, rheumatism, skin diseases, and stomach aches. Tel: (0771) 22-5645 (Yu-no-hana Ryokan Association). To get there: Take the JR Sagano line to Kameoka (30 minutes). The onsen are a 20-min ride by Kyoto Kotsu bus from Kameoka Stn. Amano Hashidate Onsen (Miyazu City): The legendary Amano Hashidate land bridge, 3.6 kilometers of fine white sand covered by 8,000 pine trees, attracts people year round. Most ryokan inns or hotels in the area have their own onsen hot spring facilities. Tel: (0772) 22-8030 (Amano Hashidate Monju Tourist Association). To get there: Take a JR Sanin express train to Amano Hashidate (5 departures daily). Shizuka No Sato (Amino Town): With its panoramic view of the Japan Sea, this spa is popular year round. To get there: Take the direct Tango Discovery from Kyoto Stn. (at 12:25), or take the JR Saiin line to Amano Hashidate (5 times a day) and transfer to the Kitakinki Tango line. Get out at Amino Stn. Yasaka Ashiginu Onsen (Yasaka Town): This large spa, in the heart of the spectacular Tango Peninsula, has 9 different kinds of baths. To get there: Take the direct Tango Discovery from Kyoto Station to Mineyama Station. The onsen is a 10-min ride by taxi from the station.

Dec. 2001 interview with Tomoko Nakamura, ryokan owner

YJPT interviewed Ms. Tomoko Nakamura at the Yoshida Sanso Ryokan in December, 2001. At the time she was the next generation in line to run this prestigious inn near the Silver Pavilion and Kyoto University.

YJPT: How did Yoshidasanso get started?

TN: Yoshidasanso was built originally in 1932 as private residence for Higashi Fushiminomiya, the uncle of the current Emperor of Japan. He lived here while he was a student at Kyoto University, which was called Kyoto Imperial University in those days. In 1948, the property was converted into an exclusive ryokan.

YJPT: Since Yoshidasanso was built for a member of the imperial family it must have a number of interesting design features. What are some of the things that make this place special?

TN: Yoshidasanso was designed in the shoin zukuri style, which is considered to be the highest level of traditional Japanese architectural expression. As amazing as it may seem, there is not a single nail in the building! The entire structure is made of hinoki [Japanese cypress]. Hinoki is one of the most expensive traditional construction materials in Japan, and it is quite rare for a whole building to be made of hinoki. The wood is very resistant to water, and the grain very straight. It is an extremely beautiful material.

The entrance gate of Yoshidasanso was constructed by Tsunekazu Nishioka, one of the greatest temple carpenters of the last century. He was the master builder that supervised the amazing reconstruction and restoration of Nara’s most prized temples: Horyu-ji [the oldest extant wooden structure in the world], Toshodai-ji, and Yakushi-ji. Our gate is the only work he did in Kyoto. It is a scaled-down replica of the entrance to one of Toshodai-ji’s subtemples.

YJPT: What other things make Yoshidasanso unique?

TN: As a ryokan, Yoshidasanso is exceptional. Since Higashi Fushiminomiya was a member of the imperial family, the villa is has several unique design features. The ceilings are very high, the hallways wide, and the overall feeling is of grandness and refinement. The entrance area is particularly spacious and elegant. Throughout the building many key places are decorated with the imperial emblem, the chrysanthemum flower. There are chrysanthemum mark on the roof tiles, on the metal circular hand grips all the sliding doors, and carved into the ranma section above the sliding door that separate each room into smaller sections. Finally, the villa was designed during a period when Western things, especially British styles, were in vogue in Japan and this has also been integrated into the overall design. The eastern section of the first and second floors have wooden floors [parquet], tables and chairs, and several of the windows are set with stained glass. His study is on the second floor.

YJPT: Do you get many foreign guests?

TN: Yes, very often. Since we started our homepage in early 1999, we have had even more foreign guests from all over the world. We have had an especially high number of guests from New York, which is really fun for me as I lived there for a few years. My impression is that most of our New York guests are very creative, and this makes them quite interesting to talk with and take care of.

YJPT: Do you get a lot of young guests?

TN: Since we opened the cafe on the first floor we have had many young people. They can come here casually and relax. When they get older we hope they remember us and come to stay the night.

We also actively promote traditional and new culture at Yoshidasanso. Over the past 20 years we have been holding concerts here two or three times a year, using the same popular players, as well as other fine musicians. For example, we recently had a fine Irish trio from Seattle perform here. My mother and my uncle in New York are both very interested in art and music. I, myself, love antiques. Nowadays, we are trying more and more to produce unique cultural events that combine Kyoto cuisine and culture with excellent music and art from around the world. More than anything, we want to keep Yoshidasanso alive and vibrant.

YJPT: How long were you in New York and what did you do there?

TN: After I graduated from highschool, I lived in Manhattan for 5 years. My oldest cousin was there for 11 years. I just loved the city. I studied business and management on Long Island. To pay for my tuition I started working at Omen in Manhattan, which my grandmother started here in Kyoto about 30 years ago.

However, when I was New York I also had a strong desire to do something simply for myself: to discover new things. Just before I came back to Kyoto, I worked as a volunteer for a group called GMHC, Gay Men’s Health Crisis, the biggest AIDS’ patient assistance organization in New York. It was an eye opening experience and it really inspired me. Of course an institute is totally different from a ryokan, but caring for people, no matter what their condition, is similar. It is all about being sensitive and responsive to the needs of others.

YJPT: Was it difficult when you came back to Japan from New York?

TN: In came back in 1999, in March, and for the first few months I was extremely homesick for my New York friends and life. It took me about a year to appreciate and accept my life here. Now I am very grateful to have the chance to lead my family’s business into the 21st century.

But more than growing to love my work I have also fallen in love with Kyoto, not for the first time, but much deeper than before. This place, Yoshidayama and the surrounding area, is breathtaking. In some ways, I feel like I am living in a dream-like landscape. Kyoto is very exotic and mysterious. Unfortunately, many old building are being torn down these days and this makes me sad. As an individual, I should like to do whatever I can to preserve the ancient life of Kyoto. The neighborhoods around here, luckily, have not changed much.

However, it is a highly complicated thing to preserve Kyoto and everyone must play their part. Land tax on large land plots such as ours are enormous and not everyone can afford to pay. We must try to find innovative ways to save what should be saved.

YJPT: As the oldest child in your family, could you have chosen a different career?

TN: Of course I could have. But during the years that I was in New York I ultimately didn’t find anything that was stronger than my duty to my family. The last year in New York and the first year in Japan, I was very unsure about what I wanted and what I was doing. People around me have always inspired me and encouraged me to do more with my life. In the end, I don’t think it matters where I am. I can do whatever I want to and need to do, no matter where I am.

For more information about Yoshidasanso (Tel: 771-6125), see their homepage [in English] @ http://www.yoshidasanso.com .

Content by Japan travel specialist & designer Ian Martin Ropke, founder & owner of Your Japan Private Tours (YJPT, est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with all of YJPT's Japan private tour clients and have a great team behind me. I promote YJPT through this content and only advertise at www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip to save time & have a better time. Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search) is also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!